Rip current charactersitics and their role in the exchange of water and surf diatoms between the surf zone and nearshore

Photogrammetric measurements of dye dispersion in a high-energy surf zone provided semi-quantitative measurements of the pattern and flux of water exchange between the surf zone and nearshore. The intensity of current flow, the rip morphology and its position within the surf zone have important ecological implications for the surf zone and nearshore biota. A variety of water-movement patterns was found, ranging from currents which remained confined to the beach terrace to those which involved substantial exchange across the breaker line. In considering rips as exchange mechanisms, two rip types are recognized. Depending on the exchange of water across the breaker line, a rip may be classified as ‘exchange’ or ‘non-exchange’. The ecological significance of these current types is discussed and a classification scheme for rip currents is proposed. Offshore fluxes across the breaker line by rip currents ranged from negligible to 80 m³s⁻¹ rip⁻¹. The estimated maximum flux per running meter of the Sundays River Beach was calculated as 0·0.32m ³ s⁻¹. The half-residence period of surf-zone water ranged from as little as 22 min t0 5 days, averaging 3·6 h.A dichotomy of current patterns found between the water column and surface layers is used to explain the build up of a concentration gradient in cell numbers of the surf diatom Anaulus birostratus within the surf zone despite extensive flushing by surf circulation.