| Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone |
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| 作者单位： | Gu Jialong Shen Xianrong Professor，Hohai University，NanjingEngineer，The Investigation and Design Institute，Bureau of Communications of Zhejiang Province，Hangzhou |
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| 摘 要： | In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.
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Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone |
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| Gu Jialong Shen Xianrong Professor,Hohai University,NanjingEngineer,The Investigation and Design Institute,Bureau of Communications of Zhejiang Province,Hangzhou. Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone[J]. China Ocean Engineering, 1991, 0(2) |
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| Authors: | Gu Jialong Shen Xianrong Professor Hohai University NanjingEngineer The Investigation Design Institute Bureau of Communications of Zhejiang Province Hangzhou |
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| Abstract: | In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches. |
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| Keywords: | wave decay surf zone breaking wave energy dissipation cnoidal wave wave set-up and set-down |
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