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A compact representation of ocean wave directionality
Authors:Alan L Higgins  Richard J Seymour  Steven S Pawka
Institution:Bolt Beranek and Newman, Inc., 50 Moulton Street, Cambridge, MA 02138, USA;Calif. Dept. of Boating and Waterways and Scripps Institution of Oceanography, Nearshore Research Group, La Jolla, CA 92093, USA;Scripps Institution of Oceanography, Shore Processes Laboratory, La Jolla, CA 92093, USA
Abstract:The spectrum of the longshore component of shoreward directed momentum flux (Sxy) due to ocean waves, taken with the energy spectrum for the same wave field, is shown to provide a compact and useful representation of ocean wave directionality. Records of orthogonal surface slope components are demonstrated to yield an unbiased estimate of Sxy. One method for estimation of Sxy using this relationship is investigated. Error analysis provides means for optimal selection of measurement parameters. Experimental verification is provided from laboratory tests and from field comparison with a five-element linear array.
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