Breaking wave forces and velocity fields

A new technique for measuring velocities under breaking wave crests using laser-doppler anemometry has been developed. Results may be obtained at positions up to 4 millimeters from the crest.A wave field is presented for a vertically fronted wave and comparison is made with an appropriate numerical study. The velocities obtained are far in excess of the predictions of linear theory.Measurements have also been made of the forces produced by this wave on a horizontal cylinder. Comparisons with large regular waves indicate that forces due to breaking waves can be up to five times greater for similar wave heights.