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Features of wind waves at the southeastern coast of Sakhalin according to bottom-pressure measurements
Authors:K I Kuznetsov  A A Kurkin  E N Pelinovsky  P D Kovalev
Institution:1. Institute of Marine Geology and Geophysics, Far East Branch, Russian Academy of Sciences, ul. Nauki 1b, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, 693022, Russia
2. Nizhni Novgorod State Technical University, Minin St., 24, Nizhny Novgorod, Nizhni Novgorod, 603950, Russia
3. Special Design Bureau for Automation of Marine Research, Far East Branch, Russian Academy of Sciences, ul. Gor’kogo 25, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, 693023, Russia
4. Far Eastern Federal University, ul. Gor’kogo 30, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, 693020, Russia
5. Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences, ul. Ul’yanova 46, Nizhni Novgorod, 603950, Russia
Abstract:The results of wind-wave measurements with bottom-pressure sensors are discussed. These measurements were performed at the southeastern coast of the Island of Sakhalin in 2006–2009. The problems of converting data obtained with these sensors into water-level displacent in the context of the linear theory are noted. Twenty records with a duration of 2 weeks to 3 months were obtained. These records contain from 150000 to 1200000 waves for three different observation points located at the southeastern coast of Sakhalin in the regions of the village of Vzmor’ye, Lake Izmenchivoye, and the Cape of Ostryi. The estimates obtained for wave-height distributions were approximated by the Weibull distribution. They were compared to the theoretical Rayleigh, Forristall, Weibull, and Glukhovskii distributions. As one would expect, in the region of small wave heights, all distributions prove to be close to one another, and, for large wave heights, the Weibull distribution is preferred.
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