Wave energy losses in intermediate depths

Recent work on wave power devices has encouraged interest in the processes whereby waves lose energy and change direction in shoaling water, and especially in detailed calculations of their effects.^1,2 Here one of the most comprehensive sets of measurements available is examined, for four sites in depths of 15 to 100 m off South Uist in the Hebrides. The mean directional spectrum is recalculated for each site, and a proper allowance found for refraction which raises the estimates of net energy flux in intermediate depths by up to 10%. Indeed, the pattern of losses between 100 m and 23 m depths fits well with that expected from bottom friction. The estimated friction coefficient is quite high, as might be expected in view of the very rough sea bottom in the area.³