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Statistical Distribution of Depth-Integrated Local Horizontal Momentum for Second-Order Random Ocean Waves in Finite Water Depth
作者姓名:宋金宝
作者单位:InstituteofOceartology,ChineseAcademyofSciences,Qingdao266071,China
基金项目:Thepresentworkwassupportedbythe 1 0 0 talentprojectoftheChineseAcademyofSciences (GrantNo .5 2 4)
摘    要:Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in tinite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth-integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the characteristic function expansion method. The parameters involved in the distributions can be all detemained by the water depth and the wavenumber spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, a fully developed wind-generated sea is considered and the parameters are calculated for typical wind speeds and water depths by means of the Donelan and Pierson spectrum. The effects of nonlinearity and water depth on the distributions are also investigated.

关 键 词:统计学  水深  海水波浪  海洋动力学

Statistical Distribution of Depth-Integrated Local Horizontal Momentum for Second-Order Random Ocean Waves in Finite Water Depth
SONG Jin bao Institute of Oceanology,Chinese Academy of Sciences,Qingdao ,China.Statistical Distribution of Depth-Integrated Local Horizontal Momentum for Second-Order Random Ocean Waves in Finite Water Depth[J].China Ocean Engineering,2004,18(3):381-389.
Authors:SONG Jin bao Institute of Oceanology  Chinese Academy of Sciences  Qingdao  China
Institution:SONG Jin bao 1 Institute of Oceanology,Chinese Academy of Sciences,Qingdao 266071,China
Abstract:Based on the second order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the characteristic function expansion method. The parameters involved in the distributions can be all determined by the water depth and the wave number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, a fully developed wind generated sea is considered and the parameters are calculated for typical wind speeds and water depths by means of the Donelan and Pierson spectrum. The effects of nonlinearity and water depth on the distributions are also investigated.
Keywords:statistical distribution  depth-integrated local momentum  second-order random waves  water depth  wave-number spectrum
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