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Nonlinear Model of Mean Free Surface of Waves
Authors:DONG Guohai ZOU Zhili Nicholas DODD Ph D  Associate Prof  the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian Ph D  Professor  the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering  Dalian University of Technology  Dalian Ph D  Coastal Group  HR Wallingford  Howbery Park  Wallingford  OX BA  UK
Institution:DONG Guohai ZOU Zhili Nicholas DODD Ph. D.,Associate Prof.,the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Dalian University of Technology,Dalian 116023 Ph. D.,Professor,the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Dalian University of Technology,Dalian 116023 Ph. D.,Coastal Group,HR Wallingford,Howbery Park,Wallingford,OX10 8BA,U.K.
Abstract:A nonlinear model of mean free surface of waves or wave set-up is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method (Watson et al., 1992), with Time-Operator-Splitting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modeling wave set-up. The short wave (or primary wave) energy equation is solved by use of a more traditional Lax- Wendroff technique. A nonlinear wave theory (James, 1974) is introduced. The model described in this paper is found to be satisfactory in most respects when compared with the measurements conducted by Stive (1983) except in modeling the mean free surface very close to the mean shoreline.
Keywords:mean free surface  radiation stress  hyperbolic wave theory  nonlinear model  wave propagation
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