| Nonlinear Effect of Wave Propagation in Shallow Water |
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| 作者单位： | LI Ruijie and WANG Houjie
Associate Professor，Ocean University of Qingdao，Qingdao 266003，P. R. China.
Graduate Student，Ocean University of Qingdao，Qingdao 266003，P. R. China. |
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| 摘 要： | —In this paper,a nonlinear model is presented to describe wave transformation in shallow wat-er with the zero-vorticity equation of wave-number vector and energy conservation equation.Thenonlinear effect due to an empirical dispersion relation(by Hedges)is compared with that of Dalrymple＇sdispersion relation.The model is tested against the laboratory measurements for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach,where both refraction and diffraction are significant.The computation re-sults,compared with those obtained through linear dispersion relation.show that the nonlinear effect ofwave transformation in shallow water is important.And the empirical dispersion relation is suitable for re-searching the nonlinearity of wave in shallow water.
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Nonlinear Effect of Wave Propagation in Shallow Water |
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| Authors: | LI Ruijie and WANG Houjie
Associate Professor Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P R China
Graduate Student Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P R China |
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| Institution: | LI Ruijie and WANG Houjie
Associate Professor,Ocean University of Qingdao,Qingdao 266003,P. R. China.
Graduate Student,Ocean University of Qingdao,Qingdao 266003,P. R. China. |
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| Abstract: | -In this paper, a nonlinear model is presented to describe wave transformation in shallow water with the zero- vorticity equation of wave- number vector and energy conservation equation. The nonlinear effect due to an empirical dispersion relation (by Hedges) is compared with that of Dalrymple's dispersion relation. The model is tested against the laboratory measurements for the case of a submerged elliptical shoal on a slope beach, where both refraction and diffraction are significant. The computation results, compared with those obtained through linear dispersion relation, show that the nonlinear effect of wave transformation in shallow water is important. And the empirical dispersion relation is suitable for researching the nonlinearity of wave in shallow water. |
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| Keywords: | wave propagation: shallow water non/inearity refraction and diffraction empirical dispersion relation |
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