跨地方饮食文化生产中的原真性重塑——西贝西北菜在广州的案例研究

在文献梳理基础上,采用结构方程模型方法,构建基于服务质量、食物质量、环境、原真性食物、原真性环境、原真性服务、感知价值、满意度、行为意向等9 个概念的理论模型,讨论广州西贝西北菜餐厅跨地方饮食文化生产的顾客行为意向。研究发现:① 跨地方文化生产餐厅的原真性可从原真性食物、原真性环境、原真性服务三个维度进行解释。原真性饮食文化生产凸显了地方性,但被消费者认知的原真性,是一种被凸显的、符号化的、重塑的原真性,是对学术界争论的几种原真性的杂糅和融合。② 在跨地方文化生产中,原真性环境和服务比原真性食物更重要,尤其是在定位高档的跨地方饮食文化消费情境中,原真性服务对顾客满意感有显著影响,充分证明原真性服务是跨地方文化生产餐厅原真性的重要组成部分,对顾客的原真性体验产生积极影响。这是地方性饮食在跨地方饮食文化生产中的原真性重塑及融合的结果。③ 原真性服务对跨地方饮食文化的原真性重塑具有关键作用,消费者对跨地方饮食文化原真性的体验,取决于远离饮食文化源地的经营地的地方性文化特质。

Reconstructed authenticity in translocal cultural production of food: A case study of Northwest China Cuisine in Guangdong

This paper constructs a theoretical model including service quality, food quality, environment, food authenticity, environment authenticity, service authenticity, perceived value, satisfaction and behavioral intention, based on the literature review. A case of Northwest China Cuisine in Canton, Xibei Restaurant, has been studied to discuss the relationship among these dimensions. Some conclusions are drawn as follows. First, the authenticity of translocal restaurant includes food authenticity, environment authenticity and service authenticity. The translocal cultural production of food makes the locality prominent. The authenticity perceived by customers in translocal restaurant is symbolic authenticity or reconstructed authenticity. Second, environment authenticity and service authenticity are more important than food authenticity in translocal restaurant, which demonstrates that the service authenticity has significant influence on customer satisfaction. Third, service authenticity plays a key role in reconstructing authenticity of translocal cultural production in food. The customers' experience of authenticity in translocal restaurant is determined by the blend of both original and local food cultures.