| CALCULATIONS OF WAVE BREAKING PROBABILITY AND DISTRIBUTION OF BREAKING WAVE HEIGHTS IN DEEP WATER |
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| 引用本文： | 宋金宝,娄顺里,田纪伟. CALCULATIONS OF WAVE BREAKING PROBABILITY AND DISTRIBUTION OF BREAKING WAVE HEIGHTS IN DEEP WATER[J]. 中国海洋湖沼学报, 1997, 15(3): 252-257. DOI: 10.1007/BF02850881 |
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| 作者姓名： | 宋金宝 娄顺里 田纪伟 |
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| 作者单位： | Physical Oceanography Laboratory，Ocean University of Qingdao.Qingdao 266003 |
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| 摘 要： | lareODUcrI0NThephenomenonofbreakingwavesintheoasnoocurswheneveramomentahiyhighcrestmecheSanunstablecondition.It0ccursintendtimhy,andtheoccurrencefre-qUencydePendsonthescastate.ManystudAshaddricaniedoutontheoccurmcefre-qUencyofbrmkingwavesindeepweter.0chiandTsai(l983),LongueHiggins(l975)andVanD0mandPamn(l975)nadstheptalictonofbrmkingwavesoccurrenceindeePwater,usingabaskingcriterionforindividualwavesbasedonthewavesmpness.ThecriterioncanbeexpmeedintennSofthewaVehdghtHandperiodTasH>PgT'(…
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| 收稿时间： | 1996-07-30 |
| 修稿时间： | 1997-01-18 |
Calculations of wave breaking probability and distribution of breaking wave heights in deep water |
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| Song Jin-bao,Lou Shun-li,Tian Ji-wei. Calculations of wave breaking probability and distribution of breaking wave heights in deep water[J]. Chinese Journal of Oceanology and Limnology, 1997, 15(3): 252-257. DOI: 10.1007/BF02850881 |
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| Authors: | Song Jin-bao Lou Shun-li Tian Ji-wei |
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| Affiliation: | (1) Physical Oceanography Laboratory, Ocean University of Qingdao, 266003 Qingdao |
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| Abstract: | This practical method for calculating the probability of a wave breaking and the distribution of breaking weve heights is based on the joint probebility distribution of wave heights and periods derived by Sun Fu and the breaking criterion obtained by Ochi and Tsai from measurements of irregular waves generated in a tank. Computations for differnt an states using the P-M spectrum and the JONSWAP spectrum showed that the probability of wave basking (or the distribution of beding were heights) in the deep ocean can be determined, at least approximated, from the zero, the first and the scond moments of the wave spectrum. |
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| Keywords: | wave breaking probability of wave breaking distribution of breaking wave heights |
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