A representation for the frequency spectrum of wind-generated waves |
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Authors: | Paul C Liu |
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Institution: | U.S. Department of Commerce/NOAA, Great Lakes Environmental Research Laboratory, 2300 Washtenaw Avenue, Ann Arbor, MI 48104, U.S.A. |
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Abstract: | This paper proposes the following generalized representation for a wind-wave frequency spectrum: where E = ∫S(f)df is the variance of the surface displacement; fm is the frequency of the spectral peak; and Ci's, i = 1,2,3, are dimensionless parameters that can be determined from the internal spectral parameters of a given spectrum.When applied to 234 sets of wave spectra recorded in the Great Lakes, this representation has been realistic, accurate, and capable of representing widely varied wave processes. The Ci's are clearly related to wave growth processes; they are large during early growth, decrease as waves grow, and reach approximate equilibrium when waves are fully developed. |
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