Breaking Criteria for Regular Waves on Gentle Slopes |
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| Authors: | LI Yucheng GUI LifangYU Yang TENG Bing Professor Ph. D. Student Supervisor the State Key Laboratory of Coastal Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology Dalian P. R. ChinaGraduate Student Dalian University of Technology Dalian P. R. ChinaPh. D. Candidate Dalian University of Technology Dalian P. R. China |
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| Affiliation: | LI Yucheng GUI LifangYU Yang TENG Bing Professor,Ph. D. Student Supervisor,the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Dalian University of Technology,Dalian 116024,P. R. ChinaGraduate Student,Dalian University of Technology,Dalian 116024,P. R. ChinaPh. D. Candidate,Dalian University of Technology,Dalian 116024,P. R. China |
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| Abstract: | Nelson pointed out that the wave breaking criterion (H/d)b for gentle slopes (i < 1/100) , in which H is the wave height and d is the water depth at the breaking point, is smaller than that for beach slopes of i > 1 /100 , i. e., the value of (H/ d) b for gentle slopes may be smaller than 0.6. Goda indicated that the wave breaking criterion given by himself is a result based on theoretical study, so it should be also correct and can be used for gentle beaches, i. e., the value of (H/d)b for gentle slopes may be still larger than 0.7. By use of high order nonlinear wave theory, this problem is analyzed in this study and the reason why there is a large difference between different studies is explained. Moreover, the bottom energy loss during wave propagation is considered and the critical slope for the absence of wave breaking is also analyzed. |
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| Keywords: | wave beach slope breaking |
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