Effect of the shape of an underwater coastal slope on the hydrodynamic instability parameters of a long-shore wave current in a surf zone

This paper reports the results of a numerical study on the hydrodynamic instability parameters of a long-shore wave current in a surf zone with convex and concave bottom profiles. The limits of the change of the relative length of a long-shore meander have been derived in the form of 2/66, and structural and dynamic peculiarities of perturbations in a surf zone with various bottom profiles have been demonstrated.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin.