Morphodynamics and cobbles behavior in and near the surf zone

The evolution of an initially flat sandy slope and the dynamics of large objects (cobbles/mines) emplaced on it are studied in a laboratory wave tank under simulated surf conditions. Upon initiation of wave forcing, the initially flat beach undergoes bedform changes before reaching a quasi-steady morphology characterized by a system of sand ripples along the slope and a large bar near the break point. Although the incoming wave characteristics are held fixed, the bottom morphology never reaches a strict steady state, but rather slowly changes due to the migration of ripples and bar transformation. When the wave characteristics are changed, the bedform adjusts to a new quasi-steady state after a suitable adjustment time. Studies conducted by placing model cobbles/mines on the evolving sandy bottom subjected to wave forcing show four distinct scenarios: (i) periodic cobble oscillations with zero mean displacement and small scour around the cobbles, (ii) mean onshore motion of relatively light cobbles, (iii) periodic burial of relatively heavy cobbles when their sizes are comparable to those of sand ripples, and (iv) the burial of relatively large cobbles under the bar, when the bar migrates due to changes of incoming waves. Quantitative data on the characteristics and dynamics of the bedform, including ripple-formation front propagating down the slope, ripple growth and drift, and flow around ripples, are presented. Physical explanations are provided for the observations.