Some results on the approach of a slowly-varyng gravity wave to a beach |
| |
| Authors: | E. Cumberbatch S. Wen |
| |
| Affiliation: | 1. Division of Mathematical Sciences, Purdue University , West Lafayette, IN.;2. Department of Mathematics, Ohio University , Athens, Ohio |
| |
| Abstract: | AbstractResults from the theory of slowly-varying solutions of the non-linear shallow water equations (Varley et al. (1971)) are used to estimate maximum wave height amplifications on a beach of arbitrary shape. Carrier's solution (1966) for a large disturbance out at sea is used as input. Generalizations of the slowly-varying results to non-plane situations are also presented. |
| |
| Keywords: | |
|
|
