Reproduction of higher harmonics in irregular waves

The basic features of higher harmonic waves were originally presented by Stokes in 1847 who showed that a 2nd-order regular wave would attain a higher, sharper crest and a flatter trough than the basic linear one. In this paper, these characteristics are investigated for an irregular wave train. This was done to make it possible to reproduce in a laboratory flume a wave train which has the correct profile and rms according to 2nd-order theory. The 2nd-order wave heights and the overall horizontal asymmetries of the wave train were calculated for a 1st-order PM and a Jonswap spectrum. The theoretical predictions show that the traditional wave generation in a laboratory flume which is based on linear theory produces free 2nd-order waves in addition to the bound 2nd-order waves described by Stokes. These free, parasitic waves incorrectly distort the shape of the waves and produce a varying rms as a function of distance from the wave paddle. In the 2nd-order theory presented in this paper, these free (parasitic) waves are calculated for the entire spectrum. Knowing these, they can be eliminated by compensating for them by using a 2nd-order control signal on the wave paddle. This is verified by a series of model tests which show that realistic wave profiles can be generated only by means of 2nd-order control signals. The theory and corresponding paddle control are presented for any type of translating, rotating or combined wave generator.