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A weakly non-gaussian model of wave height distribution for random wave train
Authors:Nobuhito Mori  Takashi Yasuda
Institution:a Department of Fluid Mechanics, Central Research Institute of Electric Power Industry (CRIEPI), Abiko 1646, Chiba 270-11, Japan
b Graduate Course of Environmental and Renewable Energy System, Gifu University, Yanagido 1-1, Gifu 501-11, Japan
Abstract:The wave height distribution with Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation are investigated. The results show that a non-Gaussian model of wave height distribution reasonably agrees with experimental data. It is discussed that the fourth order moment (kurtosis) of water surface elevation corresponds to the first order nonlinear correction of wave heights and is related with wave grouping.
Keywords:Wave height distribution  Non-Gaussian theory  Random wave train  Deep-water wave
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