Field observations of nearshore bar formation |
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| Authors: | Troels Aagaard Aart Kroon Michael G Hughes Brian Greenwood |
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| Institution: | 1. Institute of Geography and Geology, University of Copenhagen, Oster Voldgade 10, DK‐1350 Copenhagen K., Denmark;2. School of Geosciences & Institute of Marine Science, University of Sydney, Sydney NSW 2006, Australia;3. Department of Physical and Environmental Sciences, University of Toronto at Scarborough, 1265 Military Trail, Scarborough, Ontario, Canada M1C 1A4 |
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| Abstract: | The formation of an inner nearshore bar was observed during a high‐energy event at the sandy beach of Vejers, Denmark. The bar accreted in situ during surf zone conditions and the growth of the bar was associated with the development of a trough landward of the bar. Measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment fluxes were obtained from electromagnetic current meters and optical backscatter sensors. These process measurements showed that a divergence in sediment transport occurred at the location of the developing trough, and observed gradients in cross‐shore net sediment flux were consistent with the morphological development. The main cause for the flux gradients were cross‐shore gradients in offshore‐directed mean current (undertow) speed which depended upon local relative wave height and local bed slope. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. |
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| Keywords: | nearshore bars sediment transport undertow morphodynamics surf zone |
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