HOU YiJun1,DUAN YongLiang1,2,CHEN GengXin1,QI Peng1,SONG GuiTing1 & SI GuangCheng1,2 1 Institute of Oceanology,Chinese Academy of Sciences,Qingdao 266071,China,2 Graduate University of Chinese Academy of Sciences,Beijing 100049
Abstract:
Here we present a statistical model of random wave,using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics,as well as a new nonlinear probability distribution function of wave height in shallow water.It is more physically logical to use the wave steepness of shallow water and the factor of shallow water as the parameters in the wave height distribution.The results indicate that the two parameters not only could be parameters of the distribution function of wave height but also could reflect the degree of wave heigh...