Unexpected waves: Intermediate depth simulations and comparison with observations |
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Authors: | Johannes Gemmrich Chris Garrett |
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Institution: | Department of Physics and Astronomy, University of Victoria, Victoria, BC, Canada |
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Abstract: | In an earlier study, we defined an “unexpected wave” as, for example, a wave twice as high as any of the preceding 30 waves. Here we extend earlier deep water simulations to allow for the greater crest enhancement in water of finite depth and find that the predicted frequency of unexpected waves increases significantly. We also analyze data obtained by wave buoys off the east and west coasts of Canada. In both deep and intermediate depth water, the occurrence of unexpected waves is in reasonable accord with our simulations, supporting our assumption of random superposition of waves though with local crest enhancement by the non-resonant second harmonic. |
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