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Nonlinear Analysis of Nearshore Wave Height Variation Due to Shoaling
作者单位:Shen Xianrong Engineer,Zhejiang Provincial Design Institute of Communications,Hangzhou 310006
摘    要:Wave formulae derived from the dispersion relation for cnoidal waves are used to find an analytical solution to the problem of nearshore wave height variation on a simple topography, i. e., with an incrementally constant slope. The solution accounts for shoaling, frictional dissipation and will be sufficiently accurate for practical purposes considering the simplified assumptions which are necessary for the treatment of this problem by any method.


Nonlinear Analysis of Nearshore Wave Height Variation Due to Shoaling
Authors:Shen Xianrong Engineer  Zhejiang Provincial Design Institute of Communications  Hangzhou
Institution:Shen Xianrong Engineer,Zhejiang Provincial Design Institute of Communications,Hangzhou 310006
Abstract:Wave formulae derived from the dispersion relation for cnoidal waves are used to find an analytical solution to the problem of nearshore wave height variation on a simple topography, i. e., with an incrementally constant slope. The solution accounts for shoaling, frictional dissipation and will be sufficiently accurate for practical purposes considering the simplified assumptions which are necessary for the treatment of this problem by any method.
Keywords:nearshore wave  nonlinear analysis  bed friction  wave transformation
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