Occurrence probability of a freak wave in a nonlinear wave field |
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Authors: | Nobuhito Mori |
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Institution: | Department of Fluid Mechanics, Abiko Research Laboratory, Central Research Institute of Electric Power Industry (CRIEPI), Abiko 1646, Abiko City, Chiba 270-1194, Japan |
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Abstract: | The Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of the probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation expands the maximum wave height distribution to predict the occurrence probability of freak waves. This study investigated the enhancement of the occurrence probability of freak waves due to the fourth order moment of surface elevation, kurtosis, change and found that the nonlinear effects on the occurrence probability of a freak wave linearly depends on kurtosis for a small number of waves N=250. The statistical theory was compared with field data, and freak waves sometimes appear when not expected by the Rayleigh theory, but they were predicted by the proposed theory. |
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Keywords: | Freak wave Edgeworth expansion Nonlinearity Moment Kurtosis Wave height distributions Maximum wave height distribution |
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