| PROPAGATION AND TRANSFORMATION OF NON-LINEAR WAVES ON UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACHES Ⅱ. BREAKING OF WAVES |
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| 引用本文： | 孙孚.PROPAGATION AND TRANSFORMATION OF NON-LINEAR WAVES ON UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACHES Ⅱ. BREAKING OF WAVES[J].海洋学报(英文版),1987,6(2):169-176. |
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| 作者姓名： | 孙孚 |
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| 作者单位： | Shandong College |
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| 摘 要： | In this paper, a systematic discussion based on the theory proposed in the preceding paper is given for such breaking characteristics on sloping beaches as breaking depths and breaker heights. Through introducing two empirical constants and considering the complicatedness of the subject studied, the final results are in good agreement with observations. Further experimental verification and theoretical study are necessary.
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| 收稿时间： | 1985/5/13 0:00:00 |
| 修稿时间： | 1985/10/25 0:00:00 |
PROPAGATION AND TRANSFORMATION OF NON-LINEAR WAVES ON UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACHES Ⅱ. BREAKING OF WAVES |
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| SUN FU.PROPAGATION AND TRANSFORMATION OF NON-LINEAR WAVES ON UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACHES Ⅱ. BREAKING OF WAVES[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,1987,6(2):169-176. |
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| Authors: | SUN FU |
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| Institution: | Shandong College of Oceanology, Qingdao |
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| Abstract: | In this paper, a systematic discussion based on the theory proposed in the preceding paper1] is given for such breaking characteristics on sloping beaches as breaking depths and breaker heights. Through introducing two empirical constants and considering the complicatedness of the subject studied, the final results are in good agreement with observations. Further experimental verification and theoretical study are necessary. |
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