A function to determine wavelength from deep into shallow water based on the length of the cnoidal wave at breaking—Reply to discussion by T.S. Hedges |
| |
| Authors: | J.P. Le Roux |
| |
| Affiliation: | Departamento de Geología, Facultad de Ciencias Físicas y Matemáticas, Universidad de Chile, Casilla 13518, Correo 21, Santiago, Chile |
| |
| Abstract: | The equations of Hedges [Hedges, T.S., 2009. Discussion of “A function to determine wavelength from deep into shallow water based on the length of the cnoidal wave at breaking” by J.P. Le Roux, Coastal Eng.], although yielding similar wavelengths, are not consistent with the fact that the horizontal water particle velocity in the wave crest should equal the wave celerity at breaking over a nearly horizontal bottom. |
| |
| Keywords: | Cnoidal waves Wavelength Wave celerity Airy waves |
| 本文献已被 ScienceDirect 等数据库收录！ |
|
