中国饮食辛辣口味的地理分布及其成因研究

以往对中国饮食食辣区域的分析还完全是一种纯感性的认识,如简单地认为南辣北淡,对各个食辣区的食辣程度也是众说纷纭。本文将统计分析、实地考察、文献记载结合起来研究,认为经过历史时期的发展,现代中国在饮食口味上形成了三个辛辣口味层次地区:即长江上中游重辛辣区,包括四川(含今重庆)、湖南、湖北、贵州、陕西南部等地,辛辣指数在151至25左右;北方微辣区,东及辽东半岛、北京、山东等地,西经山西、陕北关中及以北、甘肃大部、青海到新疆,是另外一个相对辛辣区,辛辣指数在26至15之间;东南沿海淡味区,在山东以南的东南沿海江苏、上海、浙江、福建、广东为忌辛辣的淡味区,辛辣指数在17至8间,其趋势是越往南辛辣指数越低。传统认为食辣仅主要是去湿驱寒,而本文研究表明冬季日照数少、湿润而寒冷是形成辛辣重区的主要环境因素,同时也分析了形成辛辣重区的社会因素如移民迁移等因素作用

The reasons and distribution of pungent flavour districts in China’s dietetics

Previous studies on pungent flavour districts in China are fully on the basis of perceptual knowledge, for example, it was simply thought that taste of food in southen China was hot but less pungent in northern China. Opinions differ greatly on pungent degrees of food in different districts This paper holds that there are three flavour districts on food and drink in China:1)Strong pungent flavour district in the middle amd upper reaches of the Yangtze River,includeing Sichuan, Chongqing, Hunan, Hubei, Guizhouand southern Shaanxi with pungent index being 151-25.2)Pungent flavour district in northern China, including Beijing,Shandong, Shanxi,Guanzhong in northern Shaanxi and greater part of Gansu, Qinghai and Xinjiang with pungent index being 26-15 3)Light flavour district along the southeast coast, including Jiangsu, Shanghai, Zhejiang, Fujian and Guangdong with pungent index being 17-8 Previous veiw held that the reason for eating pungent food was to disperse damp vapours and keep warm in light with statistics and analyses as well as on the spot investigations and document records Present study holds that the principal environmental factors for the formation of heavy pungent flavour district are inadequate sunshine, mosit and cold in winter. Social reasons such as migration are also analyzed in the paper