The effect of an offshore bank in attenuating waves

Waverider buoys were installed in approximately 16 m of water offshore of the Size-well-Dunwich Bank off the East Coast of England and in approximately 11 m of water inshore of it. Minimum water depth over the bank was approximately 4.5 m at mid-tide level. Simultaneous records were obtained for substantial periods between November 1978 and May 1979. These show negligible attenuation for small waves, but as the offshore waveheight increased, the inshore waveheight tended to saturate at an H_s of about 3 m. The form of the relationship between inshore and offshore waveheight is predicted theoretically assuming that high individual waves which cross the bank are limited by breaking. The theoretical curve agrees well with the measured data. The measured saturation level corresponds to a wave breaking when its height is approximately 0.5 the water depth, which is considerably lower than the usual engineering criterion. However, some published tank results also appear to show the same low value.