Explicit formulae for practical wave calculations |
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Authors: | Peter Nielsen |
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Institution: | Coastal Studies Unit, Department of Geography, University of Sydney, Sydney, 2006 N.S.W. Australia |
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Abstract: | Explicit formulae for linear wave quantities are presented, which are accurate within one percent for
(water depth to deep-water wave length) less than 0.20. The formulae are exact in the shallow-water limit (
) and surprisingly simple. It is shown how they can be applied to obtain direct solutions to refraction and dissipation problems with sufficient accuracy for practical coastal engineering work. |
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