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Explicit formulae for practical wave calculations
Authors:Peter Nielsen
Institution:Coastal Studies Unit, Department of Geography, University of Sydney, Sydney, 2006 N.S.W. Australia
Abstract:Explicit formulae for linear wave quantities are presented, which are accurate within one percent for (water depth to deep-water wave length) less than 0.20. The formulae are exact in the shallow-water limit ( ) and surprisingly simple. It is shown how they can be applied to obtain direct solutions to refraction and dissipation problems with sufficient accuracy for practical coastal engineering work.
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