A parametric model for barred equilibrium beach profiles |
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| Institution: | 1. Marine Geosciences Division, Naval Research Laboratory, Code 7440.3, Bldg 1005, Stennis Space Center, MS 39529-5004, USA;2. Oceanography Division, 1009 Balch Blvd, Naval Research Laboratory, Stennis Space Center, MS 39529, USA;1. Department of Mechanical Engineering, Technical University of Denmark, Nils Koppels Alle, Bygn. 403, 2800 Kgs Lyngby, Denmark;2. Coastal Structure and Waves, Deltares, Rotterdamseweg 185, 2629HD Delft, The Netherlands;1. Institute for Marine and Atmospheric Research, Department of Physical Geography, Faculty of Geosciences, Utrecht University, P.O. Box 80.115, 3508 TC Utrecht, Netherlands;2. Water, Environment and Infrastructure Resilience Research Unit, Department of Architecture and Civil Engineering, University of Bath, Bath BA2 7AY, United Kingdom;3. CNRS, UMR EPOC 5805, 33615 Pessac, France;4. Université de Bordeaux, UMR EPOC 5805, 33615 Pessac, France;5. Ifremer — Dyneco/Physed, Centre Bretagne, BP70, 29280 Plouzané, France;6. Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark, USA;1. Department of Mechanical Engineering, Technical University of Denmark, Nils Koppels Alle, Bygn. 403, 2800 Kgs Lyngby, Denmark;2. Coastal Structure and Waves, Deltares, Rotterdamseweg 185, 2629HD Delft, The Netherlands;1. Associate Professor, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Seoul, Republic of Korea;2. Laboratori d’Enginyeria Maritima, Universitat Politecnica de Catalunya, Barcelona, Spain |
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| Abstract: | Environment predictions for locations for which bathymetric data is missing, poor or outdated requires the use of some sort of representative bathymetric form, usually one that is concave up but monotonic. We propose and test a parametric form that superimposes realistic sand bars (Ruessink et al., 2003b) on a background profile that mixes a concave up nearshore with a planar far field behavior. Implementation at any new site involves estimation of five parameters, three that can be found from approximate information from climatology or old offshore charts, one that can be estimated by almost any remote sensing modality and one, hsea that is less well understood but mostly affects deeper bathymetry that has little impact on the resulting surf zone hydrodynamics. Tests against several hundred surveys at three diverse locations show that bathymetry is better estimated by the new barred form than with a previous monotonic profiles in about 80% of cases. The remaining cases are usually associated with the parametric prediction of bars that look realistic but are out of phase. The presence of parametric bars has an even greater impact on predicted hydrodynamics since wave breaking is concentrated at sand bar locations. Modeled cross-shore transects of alongshore current and wave height over the measured survey profile are well represented by modeled transects over the barred parametric form but not for results over a Dean profile. The peak alongshore current strength and location are particularly sensitive to the presence of a sand bar. |
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