| The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water |
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| 引用本文： | Li Yucheng. The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water[J]. 海洋学报(英文版), 1996, 15(2): 261-272 |
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| 作者姓名： | Li Yucheng |
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| 作者单位： | Dalian University of Technology，Dalian 116023，China |
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| 摘 要： | Ｔｈｅｗａｖｅｔｒａｎｓｆｏｒｍａｔｉｏｎａｎｄｂｒｅａｋｉｎｇｐｈｅｎｏｍｅｎａｉｎｓｈａｌｌｏｗｗａｔｅｒ￥ＬｉＹｕｃｈｅｎｇ（１．ＤａｌｉａｎＵｎｉｖｅｒｓｉｔｙｏｆＴｅｃｈｎｏｌｏｇｙ，Ｄａｌｉａｎ１１６０２３，Ｃｈｉｎａ）Ａｂｓｔｒａｃｔ：...
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| 关 键 词： | Wave transformation wave breaking directional wave spectrum |
| 收稿时间： | 1995-11-05 |
| 修稿时间： | 1995-11-29 |
The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water |
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| Li Yucheng. The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 1996, 15(2): 261-272 |
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| Authors: | Li Yucheng |
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| Affiliation: | Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116023, China |
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| Abstract: | Based on the principle of wave action flux conservation, the following problems are analyzed in the present study:the transformation of wave and wave spectrum in currents, the change of current velocity profile alongside water depth due to the existence of waves, the breaking criteria of irregular waves, a new hybrid method for the analysis of wave transformation and breaking on slope, the VOF mehtod for calculating broken waves and the transformation of directional wave spectrum in currents. |
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| Keywords: | Wave transformation wave breaking directional wave spectrum |
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