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The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water
引用本文:Li Yucheng. The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water[J]. 海洋学报(英文版), 1996, 15(2): 261-272
作者姓名:Li Yucheng
作者单位:Dalian University of Technology,Dalian 116023,China
摘    要:Thewavetransformationandbreakingphenomenainshallowwater¥LiYucheng(1.DalianUniversityofTechnology,Dalian116023,China)Abstract:...

关 键 词:Wave transformation  wave breaking  directional wave spectrum
收稿时间:1995-11-05
修稿时间:1995-11-29

The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water
Li Yucheng. The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water[J]. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 1996, 15(2): 261-272
Authors:Li Yucheng
Affiliation:Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116023, China
Abstract:Based on the principle of wave action flux conservation, the following problems are analyzed in the present study:the transformation of wave and wave spectrum in currents, the change of current velocity profile alongside water depth due to the existence of waves, the breaking criteria of irregular waves, a new hybrid method for the analysis of wave transformation and breaking on slope, the VOF mehtod for calculating broken waves and the transformation of directional wave spectrum in currents.
Keywords:Wave transformation  wave breaking  directional wave spectrum
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