Modeling of waves and currents in the nearshore parametric vs. probabilistic approach |
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| Institution: | 1. Hydrology and Hydraulic Engineering, Vrije Universiteit Brussel, 2 Pleinlaan, 1050 Brussels, Belgium;2. Unité Morphodynamique Continentale et Côtière (M2C), Université de Caen-Basse Normandie, 24 rue des Tilleuls, 14000 Caen Cedex, France;3. Aix-Marseille Univ, CEREGE UMR 34, Institut Universitaire de France, Europôle Méditerranéen de l''Arbois, 13545 Aix-en-Provence Cedex 04, France;1. School of Biological and Chemical Engineering/School of Light Industry, Zhejiang University of Science and Technology, Hangzhou 310023, China;2. Key Laboratory of Organosilicon Chemistry and Material Technology of Ministry of Education, Hangzhou Normal University, Hangzhou 310012, China;1. The State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China;2. Transportation Management College, Dalian Maritime University, Dalian 116026, China;1. U.S. Geological Survey, Woods Hole Coastal and Marine Science Center, 384 Woods Hole Road, Woods Hole, MA 02543-1598, USA;2. U.S. Geological Survey, St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center, 600 Fourth Street South, St. Petersburg, FL 33701, USA;3. Center for Marine and Wetland Studies, Coastal Carolina University, 1270 Atlantic Avenue, Conway, SC 29526, USA;1. Associate Professor, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Seoul, Republic of Korea;2. Laboratori d’Enginyeria Maritima, Universitat Politecnica de Catalunya, Barcelona, Spain |
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| Abstract: | This paper introduces a hydrodynamic model that can predict the cross-shore transformation of wave height, on- and offshore orbital motion, and time-averaged cross-shore and longshore currents in a parametric and probabilistic mode. In the parametric mode, the computations are based on the root-mean-square wave height, the peak period, and the energy-weighted mean angle of incidence, while in the probabilistic mode a discrete number of classes with their own wave height, period, and angle of incidence is prescribed. Predictions of the two modes differ marginally and result in about the same error statistics when compared to data from laboratory and field experiments. Consistent with other probabilistic wave models, measured wave height distributions inside the surf zone were not reproduced accurately by the present probabilistic model. Although this could be remedied by introducing some variability around the breaker parameter, predictions of the other hydrodynamic parameters did not improve as a result. From a hydrodynamic point of view, it appears superfluous to use the rather time-consuming probabilistic mode for morphodynamic modeling; the parametric mode suffices. |
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