Micro- to mesoscale evolution of beaches in response to climatic shift: observation and conceptual modelling (Brittany,France)

In the framework of the European project 'Climate change and coastal evolution in Europe', the microscale (< 1 year) morphological evolution of beaches in Brittany (W France) has been monitored for some years and linked to immediate forcings, the first one being tides (with a 13-m tidal range), and the second storm intensity. For the same sites, a mesoscale (decades) evolution was reconstructed from air photographs and historical data. The evolution is forced first of all by human activities, and secondly by climatic shift: wind direction changes and average wind velocity evolution. These results were used to build and calibrate a model of coastal behaviour. The model is based on a simple sediment cell (input – transit – output) and simulates the movements of volumes of sands under successive morphodynamic processes. Each of these processes is modelled (in terms of volume exchanges) and parameterized by the relevant atmospheric element. Thus, the model is not deterministic but simulates different probabilities for atmospheric events and morphological response. The model runs for one year and produces realistic sediment accumulation values and coastal retreat rates. When run for half a century, results are also quite comparable to the field data. Storm frequency changes appear to be an important element for the evolution, but the main and first forcing is the availability of sediment.