| The retrieval of the nonlinear random waves from the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution |
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| 作者姓名： | Liu Xin'an Huang Peiji |
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| 作者单位： | First Institute of Oceanography State Oceanic Administration Qtngdao 266003 China;First Institute of Oceanography State Oceanic Administration Qtngdao 266003 China |
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| 基金项目： | This work is funded by National Natural Science Foundation of China |
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| 摘 要： | In this paper, without recourse to the nonlinear dynamical equations of the waves, the nonlinear random waves are retrieved from the non-Gaussian characteristic of the sea surface elevation distribution. The question of coincidence of the nonlinear wave profile, spectrum and its distributions of maximum (or minimum) values of the sea surface elevation with results derived from some existing nonlinear theories is expounded under the narrow-band spectrum condition. Taking the shoaling sea wave as an example, the nonlinear random wave process and its spectrum in shallow water are retrieved from both the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution in shallow water and the normal sea waves in deep water and compared with the values actually measured. Results show that they can coincide with the actually measured values quite well, thus, this can confirm that the method proposed in this paper is feasible.
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| 关 键 词： | Non-Gaussian characteristic retrieval nonlinear random waves sea surface elevation distribution |
| 收稿时间： | 1992/11/15 0:00:00 |
| 修稿时间： | 1993/1/20 0:00:00 |
The retrieval of the nonlinear random waves from the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution |
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| Liu Xin''an,Huang Peiji.The retrieval of the nonlinear random waves from the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,1993,12(4):499-510. |
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| Authors: | Liu Xin'an and Huang Peiji |
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| Institution: | First Institute of Oceanography State Oceanic Administration Qtngdao 266003 China |
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| Abstract: | In this paper, without recourse to the nonlinear dynamical equations of the waves, the nonlinear random waves are retrieved from the non-Gaussian characteristic of the sea surface elevation distribution. The question of coincidence of the nonlinear wave profile, spectrum and its distributions of maximum (or minimum) values of the sea surface elevation with results derived from some existing nonlinear theories is expounded under the narrow-band spectrum condition. Taking the shoaling sea wave as an example, the nonlinear random wave process and its spectrum in shallow water are retrieved from both the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution in shallow water and the normal sea waves in deep water and compared with the values actually measured. Results show that they can coincide with the actually measured values quite well, thus, this can confirm that the method proposed in this paper is feasible. |
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| Keywords: | Non-Gaussian characteristic retrieval nonlinear random waves sea surface elevation distribution |
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