| Infragravity Waves Produced by Wave Groups on Beaches |
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| 作者姓名： | ZOU Zhi-li |
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| 作者单位： | Stale Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology，Dalian 116024，China，Stale Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology，Dalian 116024，China |
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| 基金项目： | This project was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundations of China(Grant No.59679005，59839330) |
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| 摘 要： | The generation of low frequency waves by a single or double wave groups incident upon two plane beaches with the slope of 1/40 and 1/100 is investigated experimentally and numerically. A new type of wave maker signal is used to generate the groups, allowing the bound long wave (set-down) to be included in the group. The experiments show that the low frequency wave is generated during breaking and propagation to the shoreline of the wave group. This process of generation and propagation of low frequency waves is simulated numerically by solving the short-wave averaged mass and momentum conservation equations. The computed and measured results are in good agreement. The mechanism of generation of low frequency waves in the surf zone is examined and discussed.
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Infragravity Waves Produced by Wave Groups on Beaches |
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| ZOU Zhi-li and CHANG Mei
State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology,Dalian ,China.Infragravity Waves Produced by Wave Groups on Beaches[J].China Ocean Engineering,2003,17(4):551-564. |
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| Authors: | ZOU Zhi-li and CHANG Mei
State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology Dalian China |
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| Institution: | State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology, Dalian,116024, China State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology, Dalian,116024, China |
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| Abstract: | The generation of low frequency waves by a single or double wave groups incident upon two plane beaches with the slope of 1/40 and 1/100 is investigated experimentally and numerically. A new type of wave maker signal is used to generate the groups, allowing the bound long wave (set-down) to be included in the group. The experiments show that the low frequency wave is generated during breaking and propagation to the shoreline of the wave group. This process of generation and propagation of low frequency waves is simulated numerically by solving the short-wave averaged mass and momentum conservation equations. The computed and measured results are in good agreement. The mechanism of generation of low frequency waves in the surf zone is examined and discussed. |
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| Keywords: | surf beat infragravity waves time operator splitting |
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