岛屿岛礁海域海浪能谱模型研究进展

波浪能谱模型在岛屿岛礁海域的波浪预报研究和海洋工程中应用广泛,但存在模式计算格点无法充分体现岛屿岛礁的复杂地形特征和很难刻画波浪受到岛屿岛礁影响发生变形物理过程等两个关键问题。多重网格嵌套方案、岛屿次网格地形效应计算方案以及非结构网格、无网格、动态自适应四叉树网格等技术在体现岛屿岛礁复杂地形方面取得了较好的效果;将相位解析模型与波浪能谱模型优势互补是提高能谱模型对岛屿近岸波浪变形物理过程计算能力的一个有效方法。开展球坐标系下波作用密度谱方程的自适应四叉树网格求解方法研究,借鉴相位解析模型最新成果完善能谱模式的绕射、反射、底摩擦等物理过程,是提高岛屿岛礁海域海浪精细预报技术水平的前沿性、探索性研究方向。

Research progress of spectral wave mode of archipelago or reef ocean region

For spectral wave mode,how to adequately describe the island terrain features and accurate computation of the physical processes such as wave diffraction,refraction and bottom friction due to the presence of shoals and channels or islands,is a key task in an archipelago or reef area.Nested multi-grid scheme,islands sub-grid topographic effect calculation scheme,fitted coordinate grids,unstructured grids,and dynamic adaptive quadtree grid technology embodied islands reefs complex terrain has made satisfactory effect. The complementary advantages of phase-resolving models could be perfect ocean wave spectrum model in order to improve the wave calculation accuracy of the nearshore wave physical process in wave spectrum model.A spectral wave model coupling a quadtree-adaptive discretization of the two spatial dimensions in spherical coordinates will be established; Based on phase-resolving models such of the mild-slope equation by taking into account high-order derivatives of the bottom profile and the current,the introduction of new diffraction,reflection and bottom friction effects will be exported correction factor for spectral wave model which is a frontier and exploratory development for ocean wave refined forecast in archipelago or reef ocean regions.