Cyclostrophic balance in surface gravity waves |
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Authors: | Kern E Kenyon |
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Institution: | (1) 4632 North Lane, 92014 Del Mar, CA, U.S.A. |
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Abstract: | The cyclostrophic balance (pressure forcevs. force centrifugal force) is shown to be satisfied for all fluid particles in surface gravity waves with sinusoidal form and
circular particle orbits. Consequences of the cyclostrophic balance are 1) that the normal dispersion relation for deep water
hold and 2) that the orbital radius decrease with increasing depth at the usual exponential rate, from which it follows that
the wave pressure and particle speed also decrease with depth exponentially. In addition, the cyclostrophic and hydrostatic
balances together predict wave breaking at the crests for amplitudes exceeding one divided by the wave number. In contrast
to the traditional perturbation method, based on irrotational flow, the cyclostrophic method does not demand that the amplitude
be much less than a wave length and does not require an infinite wave train. |
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Keywords: | |
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