Separation of incident and reflected waves over sloping bathymetry |
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| Affiliation: | 1. CNES/IRD-LEGOS (CNES/CNRS/IRD/UPS) - UMR 5566, 14 Avenue Edouard Belin, 31400 Toulouse, France;2. University of Bath, Research Unit for Water, Environment and Infrastructure Resilience (WEIR), Bath BA2 7YY, United Kingdom;3. LIENSs (CNRS-Université de La Rochelle) - UMR7266, 2 rue Olympe de Gouges, 17000 La Rochelle, France;4. EPOC (CNRS-Université de Bordeaux) - UMR5805, Allée Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire, 33615 Pessac, France;5. Universidade Federal do Rio Grande, Avenida Itália - Carreiros, 96203-900 Rio Grande, RS, Brazil;1. Forschungszentrum Küste, Leibniz Universität Hannover, Hannover, Germany;2. Department of Marine Technology, Norwegian University of Science and Technology, Trondheim, Norway;1. School of Environmental and Life Sciences, University of Newcastle, Callaghan, NSW, 2308, Australia;2. Water Resources Engineering, University of Guelph, 50 Stone Rd East, Guelph, ON, N1G 2W1, Canada;3. Mechanical Engineering, University of Victoria, PO Box 1700 STN CSC, Victoria, BC, V8W 3P6, Canada;4. School of Civil Engineering, University of Queensland, St Lucia, Qld., 4067, Australia;1. Department of Marine Technology, Norwegian University of Science and Technology (NTNU), Trondheim, Norway;2. Department of Civil, Environmental and Geomatic Engineering, University College London, London, WC1E 6BT, UK |
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| Abstract: | An existing 2D method for separating incident and reflected waves over a horizontal bed [Frigaard, P., Brorsen, M., 1995. A time domain method for separating incident and reflected irregular waves. Coastal Eng., 24, 205–215.] is modified to account for normally incident linear waves propagating over a bed with arbitrary 2D bathymetry. Linear shoaling is used to determine the amplitude and phase change between two measurement positions; thereafter the existing technique can be applied. Comparisons between the existing and modified methods are made using numerically simulated data. Errors in the reflection coefficient are found to be small for large reflection coefficients, but may become large if reflection is low. However, if an accurate assessment of the amplitude of the incident and reflected wave trains is required, the bathymetry must be accounted for in order to avoid significant errors (up to 90% for cases considered). |
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