Numerical analysis of the nonlinear parameterization of waves in currents over a submerged sill with a non-hydrostatic model

An investigation of the effects of a uniform current strength direction (following or opposing wave propagation) on the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves over a submerged trapezoidal sill is carried out using SWASH, a non-hydrostatic numerical wave model. The nonlinear parameters (i.e., asymmetry, skewness, and kurtosis) are calculated, and the empirical formulas for these parameters are presented as a function of the local Ursell number based on the present numerical data measured. In the shoaling area of the submerged sill, the nonlinear characteristics of waves are more obvious when waves propagate in the same direction as the currents than when waves propagate in the opposite direction. Whereas nonlinear parameters grow with the strengthening of the following currents over the crest, they tend to decrease as the adverse current velocity increases over the crest area of the submerged sill.