由波浪压力记录计算表面波谱

对目前仍广为使用的压力测波仪来说,如何通过波浪在某深度处的压力信息来推算海面的波浪状况呢?根据深水小振幅简单波动的经典理论,关系式H_o=H_z exp[kz]成立,式中H_o、H_z分别表示海面和水深z处的波高。将这一关系式应用于实际资料,则由波浪压力记录可以求出H_z、T_z(或λ_z),再由记录的深度z就可以求出H_o。

ON ESTIMATION OF WAVE SPECTRUM FROM WAVE PRESSURE RECORDS

The paper deals with an estimation of the frequency spectrum of sea surface displacement from wave pressure records collected at any depth. Previous work on this is briefly reviewed. Based on the records of sea surface displacement and corresponding wave pressure records at a series of depths, measured in Beibu Gulf, surface displacement spectrum is calculated from the records of sea surface displacement, and from the corresponding pressure spectrum recreatively a comparison shows satisfactory agreement in low frequency domain, but a rather large discrepanty domain in the high frequency,thus suggesting that a critical frequency may exist. In view of the fact that at frequencies higher than the critical frequency one cannot succeed in computing the surface displacement spectrum from the corresponding pressure spectrum using the linear wave theory, the critical frequency is named "failure frequency" in this paper.