Energy balance of wind waves as a function of the bottom friction formulation |
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| Institution: | 1. Laboratoire de Morphodynamique Continentale et Côtière, UMR 6143, CNRS-UNICAEN-UR, 24 rue des Tilleuls, Caen 14000, France;2. Dyneco/Physed, Ifremer Centre de Bretagne, ZI Pointe du diable, Plouzané 29280, France;3. Laboratoire de Physique des Océans, UMR 6523, CNRS-Ifremer-UBO-IRD, 6 Avenue Le Gorgeu, 29238 Brest cedex 3, France;1. IHE Delft, Department of Water Science and Engineering, Westvest 7, 2611 Delft, the Netherlands;2. Instituto Dom Luiz (IDL), Faculdade de Ciências, Universidade de Lisboa, 1749-016 Lisboa, Portugal |
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| Abstract: | Four different expressions for wave energy dissipation by bottom friction are intercompared. For this purpose, the SWAN wave model and the wave data set of Lake George (Australia) are used. Three formulations are already present in SWAN (ver. 40.01): the JONSWAP expression, the drag law friction model of Collins and the eddy–viscosity model of Madsen. The eddy–viscosity model of Weber was incorporated into the SWAN code. Using Collins' and Weber's expressions, the depth- and fetch-limited wave growth laws obtained in the nearly idealized situation of Lake George can be reproduced. The wave model has shown the best performance using the formulation of Weber. This formula has some advantages over the other formulations. The expression is based on theoretical and physical principles. The wave height and the peak frequency obtained from the SWAN runs using Weber's bottom friction expression are more consistent with the measurements. The formula of Weber should therefore be preferred when modelling waves in very shallow water. |
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