随机波浪下斯托克司漂移速度是否引起水面漂移物离散的研究

漂浮于自由水面的污染物的的迁移、扩散会受到天然随机海浪的影响。之前的研究（以Herterich和Hasselmann（1982）为代表）普遍认为，随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度会引起水面污染物的离散，这个离散甚至有可能跟风和海流引起的离散同一量级。本研究就随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度是否会引起水面漂移物的离散进行理论和试验探讨。从理论推导可知，随机波浪下的质量输移速度是个定常分量，因此它不会随时间变化而引起水面漂移物的离散。随后我们在实验室水槽中进行了漂移物在随机波浪（P-M谱）作用下的漂移过程的测量。试验结果也印证了随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度不会引起水面漂移物离散的结论。

The dispersion of surface contaminants by Stokes drift in random waves

Contaminants that are floating on the surface of the ocean are subjected to the action of random waves. In the literature, it has been asserted by researchers that the random wave action will lead to a dispersion mechanism through the induced Stokes drift, and that this dispersion mechanism may have the same order of significance comparable with the others means due to tidal currents and wind. It is investigated whether or not surface floating substances will disperse in the random wave environment due to the induced Stokes drift. An analytical derivation is first performed to obtain the drift velocity under the random waves. From the analysis, it is shown that the drift velocity is a time-independent value that does not possess any fluctuation given a specific wave energy spectrum. Thus, the random wave drift by itself should not have a dispersive effect on the surface floating substances. Experiments were then conducted with small floating objects subjected to P-M spectral waves in a laboratory wave flume, and the experimental results reinforced the conclusion drawn.