Narrow banded wave propagation from very deep waters to the shore |
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| Institution: | 1. ICM (CSIC), Passeig Maritim de la Barceloneta 37-49, 08003 Barcelona, Spain;2. ETSICCP (UCLM), Avenida Camilo Jose Cela 2, 13071 Ciudad Real, Spain;3. IH Cantabria (UC),Calle Isabel Torres 15, 39011 Santander, Spain;4. IMEDEA (CSIC-UIB), Carrer Miquel Marques 21, 07190 Esporles, Spain;1. Molecular Mechanisms of Mycobacterial Infection, Center for Molecular Inflammation Research, Norwegian University of Science and Technology, Trondheim, Norway;4. Department of Developmental Biology, University of Pittsburgh School of Medicine, Pittsburgh, PA, USA;5. Laboratory for GPCR Biology, Department of Pharmacology & Chemical Biology, University of Pittsburgh School of Medicine, Pittsburgh, PA, USA |
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| Abstract: | A fully nonlinear Boussinessq-type model with several free coefficients is considered as a departure point. The model is monolayer and low order so as to simplify numerical solvability. The coefficients of the model are here considered functions of the local water depth. In doing so, we allow to improve the dispersive and shoaling properties for narrow banded wave trains in very deep waters. In particular, for monochromatic waves the dispersion and shoaling errors are bounded by ~ 2.8% up to kh = 100, being k the wave number and h the water depth. The proposed model is fully nonlinear in weakly dispersive conditions, so that nonlinear wave decomposition in shallower waters is well reproduced. The model equations are numerically solved using a fourth order scheme and tested against analytical solutions and experimental data. |
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