High-Order Models of Nonlinear and Dispersive Wave in Water of Varying Depth with Arbitrary Sloping Bottom |
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作者单位: | Hong Guangwen
Professor,Coastal and Ocean Engineering Research Institute,Hohai University,Nanjing 210024,P. R. China. |
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摘 要: | High-order models with a dissipative term for nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of va-rying depth with an arbitrary sloping bottom are presented in this article.First,the formal derivations toany high order of μ(=h/λ,depth to deep-water wave length ratio)and ε(=α/h,wave amplitude todepth ratio)for velocity potential,particle velocity vector,pressure and the Boussinesq-type equations forsurface elevation η and horizontal velocity vector U at any given level in water are given.Then,the exactexplicit expressions to the fourth order of μ are derived.Finally,the linear solutions of η,U,C(phase ce-lerity)and C_g(group velocity)for a constant water depth are obtained.Compared with the Airy theory,excellent results can be found even for a water depth as large as the wave legnth.The present high-ordermodels are applicable to nonlinear regular and irregular waves in water of any varying depth(from shal-low to deep)and bottom slope(from mild to steep).
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High-Order Models of Nonlinear and Dispersive Wave in Water of Varying Depth with Arbitrary Sloping Bottom |
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Authors: | Hong Guangwen
Professor Coastal and Ocean Engineering Research Institute Hohai University Nanjing P R China |
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Institution: | Hong Guangwen
Professor,Coastal and Ocean Engineering Research Institute,Hohai University,Nanjing 210024,P. R. China. |
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Abstract: | |
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Keywords: | nonlinear wave dispersive wave high order models boussinesq-type equations varying depth arbitrary sloping Bottom |
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