Wave run-up and overtopping on smooth and rough slopes of coastal structures

A series of hydraulic model tests has been carried out in a glass wave flume to investigate the influences of wave height, wave period, wave steepness, surf similarity parameter, roughness, layer thickness and porosity on wave run-up and overtopping of 1:2 sloped impermeable and permeable breakwaters fronted by a 1:10 gentle, smooth beach slope. The analysis of results involves the correlation between the overtopping energy transfer with the relative wall height and the relationship between wave run-up and overtopping rate. Further, measured wave run-up and overtopping rates are compared with the results given in the Shore Protection Manual (1984), Automated Coastal Engineering System (1992)and results of other investigators.     

Statistics of nonlinear wave crests and groups

Groups of large nonlinear waves with sharper higher crests can pose hazards to ships, induce harbor resonance and cause wave-overtopping of fixed and floating structures. Past interest in wave groups has mostly been focused on the statistics and modeling of linear wave groups. Studies on nonlinear wave groups are surprisingly few, and address deep water waves only. Here, statistics of nonlinear wave crests and wave-crest groups in deep and transitional water depths are considered, using an appropriate second-order representation for crest heights and the continuous wave-envelope approach. In particular, theoretical expressions describing the statistics of nonlinear wave crests and their groups are posed in the form of a simple second-order transformation of well-known results on linear waves. Predictions from the transformation so posed compare well with nonlinear wave data gathered in the North Sea, and demonstrate that nonlinearities do affect the statistics of large wave crests and their groups significantly.     

风暴期间黄河水下三角洲波浪变形

为确定适用黄河三角洲的波动理论，对黄河三角洲风暴期间及前后波浪连续观测资料进行了处理，将其投在komar波浪理论分区图中后，分析了风暴期间黄河水下三角洲波浪的波形特征，发现站位所在地适合的波浪理论主要为艾里波和斯托克斯波，风暴期间波浪变形，还存在少量超过极限波陡线的波浪，通过比较常见的极限波陡线，看出Miche曲线比较适合该研究区。     

河套盆地北缘色尔滕山河流地貌参数特征及其成因分析

地貌形态是构造和地表过程相互作用的复杂产物,主要通过构造活动和岩石的抗侵蚀能力等来调节。构造活动相对较弱的古老造山带往往可以忽略构造驱动的岩石抬升,使得研究岩石抗侵蚀能力对其地貌雕刻的贡献成为可能。但是目前大多数活动造山带地貌研究的结果显示地貌主要受控于活动构造,关于岩性对地貌演化影响的报道较少。色尔滕山山前断裂为河套盆地北缘的一条重要控盆断裂,全新世以来该断裂的活动性较强,曾发生过两次较大震级地震（M6. 4和M5. 9）。前人活动构造研究表明该断裂的活动性具有空间差异,中部乌加河镇活动性最强,两端逐渐减弱。但相对河套盆地北缘其他大型断裂（如狼山山前断裂、乌拉山北缘断裂和大青山山前断裂）,该断裂的地貌参数研究较少。同时其地貌演化特征及发育机理仍然不清楚,这些均制约了对该断裂的变形动力学理解。本文基于30 m分辨率的DEM数据对该断裂进行详细的河流地貌学参数研究,包括使用Arcgis和Matlab脚本提取色尔滕山山前33条河流的子流域盆地面积 高程积分（HI）和相应河道陡峭指数（Ksn）、河道纵剖面及其裂点等地貌学参数。结果表明研究区河流HI值大部分处于0. 40~0. 66之间,其中乌加河镇附近具有高值,流域盆地处于发育的壮年期。瞬态河道和稳态河道均沿着色尔滕山山前断裂走向分布,可能表明色尔滕山山前大部分河道目前处于瞬时地貌向均衡地貌演化阶段,并且通过对比发现瞬态河道裂点成因存在岩性和构造共同控制的现象。河道陡峭指数空间分布差异性较大,乌加河镇附近（S13~S20）陡峭指数较大,向两边陡峭指数逐渐减小,在S8河流以西又有增大的趋势。通过结合岩性和降雨情况分析发现,河道陡峭指数除了受岩性抗侵蚀能力影响外,其分布还与色尔滕山山前断裂垂直滑移速率分布和垂直位错分布基本一致。综合来看,地貌参数的空间分布是岩性差异和色尔滕山山前断裂活动分段差异性共同控制的结果,表明该地区岩性和构造对地貌的协同塑造作用。     

Estimation of the wave-related ripple characteristics and induced bed shear stress

A large data set on ripples was collected and examined. A set of new formulas for the prediction of the ripple characteristics is proposed with an emphasis on the disappearance of the ripples. The ripple wavelength was observed to be proportional to the bottom wave excursion but also to be a function of the grain-related Shields parameter and wave period parameter introduced by Mogridge et al. (1994). The ripple steepness was found to be nearly constant for orbital ripples, and with a sharp decrease for suborbital ripples. Two empirical functions are added including the effects of the critical Shields parameters (inception of transport and inception of sheet flow), i.e. giving the boundaries for the ripple existence's domain. The proposed formulas yield better prediction capabilities compared to the previously published formulas, especially when ripples are washed out. The effect of the ripple characteristics on the roughness height and the calculation of the bed shear stress is also discussed. It appeared that the bed shear stress calculation is more sensitive to the empirical coefficient a_r introduced in the estimation of the ripple-induced roughness height or to the limits of existence of the ripples than the ripple characteristics themselves.     

A steepness index unit volume flood hydrograph approach for sub‐daily flow disaggregation

The estimation of sub‐daily flows from daily flood flows is important for many hydrological and hydraulic applications. Flows during flood events often vary significantly within sub‐daily time‐scales, and failure to capture the sub‐daily flood characteristic can result in an underestimation of the instantaneous flood peaks, with possible risk of design failure. It is more common to find a longer record of daily flow series (observed or modelled using daily rainfall series) than sub‐daily flow data. This paper describes a novel approach, known as the steepness index unit volume flood hydrograph approach, for disaggregating daily flood flows into sub‐daily flows that takes advantage of the strong relationship between the standardized instantaneous flood peak and the standardized daily flood hydrograph rising‐limb steepness index. The strength of this relationship, which is considerably stronger than the relationship between the standardized flood peak and the event flood volume, is shown using data from six rivers flowing into the Gippsland Lakes in southeast Australia. The results indicate that the steepness index unit volume flood hydrograph approach can be used to disaggregate modelled daily flood flows satisfactorily, but its reliability is dependent on a model's ability to simulate the standardized daily flood hydrograph rising‐limb steepness index and the event flood volume. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

走廊南山河流纵剖面高海拔裂点的成因

河流水力侵蚀物理模型表明基岩河道纵剖面在均衡状态时表现为平滑上凹的形态,其特征反映了构造、基岩抗侵蚀能力和气候的作用;然而自然界河道纵剖面多呈现以裂点为特征的不均衡形态,不均衡的剖面形态以及裂点的研究同样可以对外力作用的变化起到很好的指示作用。位于北祁连的走廊南山高海拔河道纵剖面普遍呈现不均衡形式且发育海拔较高的裂点。通过对裂点成因分析发现,这些裂点并不主要受控于岩性、气候、构造等因素,而反映了冰川作用遗留地形与河流地形的分界。这一结果说明在对河道纵剖面高海拔裂点进行分析时要考虑到古冰川遗留地形也会对现代河道纵剖面产生重要影响,为进一步认识和理解造山带地貌演化以及控制因素提供了思路。     

A BRIEF INTRODUCTION TO THE NEW METHOD FOR RIVER PROFILE ANALYSIS: Integral Approach

The topography and geomorphology of active orogens result from the interaction of tectonics and climate. In most orogens, a fluvial channel is most sensitive to the coupling between tectonics, lithology, and climate. Meanwhile, the related signals have been recorded by both the drainage geometry and channel longitudinal profile. Thus, how to extract tectonic information from fluvial channels has been a focused issue in geologic and geomorphologic studies. The well known stream-power river incision model bridges the gap between tectonic uplift, river incision and channel profile change, making it possible to retrieve rock uplift pattern from river profiles. In this model, the river incision rate depends on the rock erodibility, contributing drainage area and river gradient. The steady-state form of the river incision model predicts a power-law scaling between the drainage area and channel gradient. Via a linear regression to the log-transformed slope-area data, the slope and intercept are channel concavity and steepness indices, respectively. The concavity relates to lithology, climatic setting and incision process while the channel steepness can be used to map the spatial pattern of rock uplift. For its simple calculation process, the slope-area analysis has been widely used in the study of tectonic geomorphology during past decades. However, to calculate river slope, the coarse channel elevation data must be smoothed, re-sampled, and differentiated without any reasonable smooth window or rigid mathematical fundamentals. One may lose important information and derive stream-power parameters with high uncertainties. In this paper, we introduce the integral approach, a procedure that has been widely used in the latest four years and demonstrated to be a better method for river profile analysis than the traditional slope-area analysis. Via the integration to the steady-state form of the stream-power river incision equation, the river longitudinal profile can be converted into a straight line of which the independent variable is the integral quantity χ with the unit of distance and the dependent variable is the relative channel elevation. We can calculate the linear correlation coefficient between elevation and χ based on a series of concavity values and find the best linear fit to be the reasonable channel concavity index. The slope of the linear fit to the χ value and elevation is simply related to the ratio of the uplift rate to the erodibility. Without calculating channel slope, the integral approach makes up for the drawback of the slope-area analysis. Meanwhile, via the integral approach, a steady-state river profile can be expressed as a continuous function, which can provide theoretical principle for some geomorphic parameters (e.g., slope-length index, hypsometric integral). In addition, we can determine the drainage network migration direction using this method. Therefore, the integral approach can be used as a better method for tectonogeomorphic research.     

海原断裂带中东段地貌差异及其成因探讨

以定量化地形因子为切入点的构造地貌学方法已成为活动构造研究的有效手段,被广泛用于定性或半定量解析地貌对新构造运动的响应及其演化过程。针对海原断裂带中东段现今地貌差异,以SRTM 90m分辨率DEM为基础,利用ArcGIS软件和Matlab程序脚本,提取了海原断裂带中东段高程、坡度、地形起伏、地形侵蚀以及河流陡峭系数等地形因子。从空间分布上看,上述各项地形因子沿断裂走向均呈现 “西高东低”的整体分布特征。西段海拔高、坡度陡、起伏大、侵蚀强、抬升快,中段和东段海拔低、坡度缓、起伏小、侵蚀弱、抬升慢,此外,在断裂带的东南尾端呈略微增加趋势,达到小范围内的峰值。在此基础上,通过对比分析地形因子与年降水量、基岩岩性,初步探讨了构造与降水、岩性等因素对地形地貌的控制作用,认为不同降水条件对地貌后期改造起显著作用,基岩岩性与现今地貌之间并无显著关系,该区域地貌类型主要受构造抬升差异所控制。沿断裂带走向上的现今地貌差异表明,西段处于相对快速的构造隆升和强挤压造山构造背景,中段由于受到黄河下切及河流冲积作用影响,地貌参数记录的抬升特征并不显著,而东段则反映出大型断裂带尾端挤压调整效应。     

Wave steepness retrieved from scatterometer data in a genetic algorithm

Wave steepness is an important characteristic of a high sea state, and is widely applied on wave propagations at ports, ships, offshore platforms, and CO2 circulation in the ocean. Obtaining wave steepness is a difficult task that depends heavily on theoretical research on wavelength distribution and direct observations. Development of remote-sensing techniques provides new opportunities to study wave steepness. At present, two formulas are proposed to estimate wave steepness from QuikSCAT and ERS-1/2 scatterometer data. We found that wave steepness retrieving is not affected by radar band, and polarization method, and that relationship of wave steepness with radar backscattering cross section is similar to that with wind. Therefore, we adopted and modified a genetic algorithm for relating wave steepness with radar backscattering cross section. Results show that the root-mean-square error of the wave steepness retrieved is 0.005 in two cases from ERS-1/2 scatterometer data and from QuikSCAT scatterometer data.