Burial and scour around short cylinder under progressive shoaling waves

The results of a laboratory experimental program aimed at better understanding the scour around and burial of heavy cylindrical objects under oscillating flow on a sandy bed are described. This study was motivated by its application to the dynamics of isolated cobbles/mines on a sandy floor under nonlinear progressive waves, such as that occur in shallow coastal waters beyond the wave-breaking region. In the experiments, nonlinear progressive waves were generated in a long wave tank of rectangular cross-section with a bottom slope. Model mines (short cylinders) were placed on the sandy bottom and the temporal evolution of the bed profile and the velocity field in the near field of the object were observed. Experiments were conducted at relatively high Reynolds numbers for a range of flow conditions, which can be characterized by the Keulegan–Carpenter number and Shields parameter. Depending on the values of these parameters, four different scour regimes around the cylinder including periodical burial of cylinder under migrating sand ripples were observed; they were classified as: (i) no scour/burial, (ii) initial scour, (iii) expanded scour, and (iv) periodic burial cases. A scour regime diagram was developed and the demarcation criteria between different regimes were deduced. Semi-empirical formulae that permit estimation of the scour depth with time, the equilibrium maximum scour depth and length, and conditions necessary for the burial of the cylinder as a function of main external parameters are also proposed.     

A Numerical Study on the Structure and Dynamics of Turbulence in Oscillatory Bottom Layer Flow over A Flat or Rippled Bed

1 .IntroductionUnder the influence of surface waves ,sandripples often appear on beaches . Whenthe amplitudeof water oscillationis sufficientlylarge ,vortices are formed onthe lee of every sand ripple crest . A-mongthese vortices ,the most important are t…     

The sequence of sediment behaviour during wave-induced liquefaction

This paper presents the results of an experimental investigation of the complete sequence of sediment behaviour beneath progressive waves. The sediment was silty with d ₅₀ = 0.060 mm. Two kinds of measurements were carried out: pore-water pressure measurements (across the sediment depth), and water-surface elevation measurements. The process of liquefaction/compaction was videotaped from the side simultaneously with the pressure and water-surface elevation measurements. The video records were then analysed to measure: (i) the time development of the mudline, (ii) the time development of liquefaction and compaction fronts in the sediment and (iii) the characteristics of the orbital motion of the liquefied sediment including the motion of the interface between the water body and the sediment. The ranges of the various quantities in the tests were: wave height, H  = 9–17 cm, wave period, T  = 1.6 sec, water depth = 42 cm, and the Shields parameter = 0.34–0.59. The experiments reveal that, with the introduction of waves, excess pore pressure builds up, which is followed by liquefaction during which internal waves are experienced at the interface of the water body and the liquefied sediment, the sequence of processes known from a previous investigation. This sequence of processes is followed by dissipation of the accumulated excess pore pressure and compaction of the sediment which is followed by the formation of bed ripples. The present results regarding the dissipation and compaction appear to be in agreement with recent centrifuge wave-tank experiments. As for the final stage of the sequence of processes (formation of ripples), the ripple steepness (normalized with the angle of repose) for sediment with liquefaction history is found to be the same as that in sediment with no liquefaction history.     

Estimation of the wave-related ripple characteristics and induced bed shear stress

A large data set on ripples was collected and examined. A set of new formulas for the prediction of the ripple characteristics is proposed with an emphasis on the disappearance of the ripples. The ripple wavelength was observed to be proportional to the bottom wave excursion but also to be a function of the grain-related Shields parameter and wave period parameter introduced by Mogridge et al. (1994). The ripple steepness was found to be nearly constant for orbital ripples, and with a sharp decrease for suborbital ripples. Two empirical functions are added including the effects of the critical Shields parameters (inception of transport and inception of sheet flow), i.e. giving the boundaries for the ripple existence's domain. The proposed formulas yield better prediction capabilities compared to the previously published formulas, especially when ripples are washed out. The effect of the ripple characteristics on the roughness height and the calculation of the bed shear stress is also discussed. It appeared that the bed shear stress calculation is more sensitive to the empirical coefficient a_r introduced in the estimation of the ripple-induced roughness height or to the limits of existence of the ripples than the ripple characteristics themselves.     

Wind ripples in an active drift sand area in the Netherlands: A preliminary report

Two types of wind ripples are distinguished in an active drift sand area near Hulshorst in The Veluwe (Central Netherlands). The common type has amplitudes of about 0·5 cm and wavelengths of some 11 cm, the atypical ripple has amplitudes of about 1 cm and wavelengths of some 16 cm. In both cases, the sand grains in the crests are coarser than those in the troughs. However, the coarseness of the grains in the crests of the higher ripples is much more pronounced than that of the lower. It is tentatively suggested that wind ripples are initiated by a regular downwind alternation in the impact energy of the descending grains in saltation, possibly due to fixed gravity waves in the sheared flows of air with grains which have strong density gradients with height.     

An experimental study on the ripple–dune transition

Flume experiments were conducted on different bed stages across the ripple–dune transition. As flow velocity increases, an initially flat bed surface (made of fairly uniform sandy material) is gradually transformed into a two‐dimensional rippled bed. With further increase in velocity, two‐dimensional ripples are replaced by irregular, linguoid ripples. As the average velocity necessary for the ripple–dune transition to occur is imposed on the bed surface, these non‐equilibrium linguoid ripples are further transformed into larger, two‐dimensional dunes. For each of these stages across the transition, a concrete mould of the bed was created and the flow structure above each fixed bed surface investigated. An acoustic Doppler velocimeter was used to study the flow characteristics above each bed surface. Detailed profiles were used along a transect located in the middle of the channel. Results are presented in the form of spatially averaged profiles of various flow characteristics and of contour maps of flow fields (section view). They clearly illustrate some important distinctions in the flow structure above the different bedform types associated with different stages during the transition. Turbulence intensity and Reynolds stresses gradually increase throughout the transition. Two‐dimensional ripples present a fairly uniform spatial distribution of turbulent flow characteristics above the bed. Linguoid ripples induce three‐dimensional turbulence structure at greater heights above the bed surface and turbulence intensity tends to increase steadily with height above bed surface in the wake region. A very significant increase in turbulence intensity and momentum exchange occurs during the transition from linguoid ripples to dunes. The turbulent flow field properties above dunes are highly dependent on the position along and above the bed surface and these fields present a very high degree of spatial variability (when compared with the rippled beds). Further investigations under natural conditions emphasizing sediment transport mechanisms and rates during the transition should represent the next step of analysis, together with an emphasis on quadrant analysis. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Influence of wave groups on SSC patterns over vortex ripples

Estimates of spatial and temporal variations in suspended sand concentrations (SSC) made with a multi-transducer Acoustic Backscatter Sensor (ABS) under a repeated wave group over a mobile rippled bed in the wave research flume at the National Hydraulics Laboratory in Ottawa, Canada, reveal an number of complex and intriguing patterns. Ensemble averages of 8 nearly identical wave groups provided much more robust estimates of SSC and allowed a detailed examination of the wave group effects. The largest SSC near the bed (< 0.10 m) occurs in phase with the largest waves in the group. Above approximately 0.10 m elevation, SSC lags behind the near bed SSC by as much as 2–3 waves; introducing significant curvature (on a semi-log plot) to the SSC profile. The log linear segments of the SSC profile grow and decay systematically on the scale of the wave group. The range in lengths of log-linear profile segments ( 0.03–0.355 m) suggest that the boundary layer thickness also fluctuates throughout the passage of the wave group. Furthermore, there are significant variations in the patterns of SSC, which occur under the largest and smallest waves in the group. Under the largest waves vertical bands of alternating high and low SSC produce an intra-wave modulation in the upper water column ( 0.075–0.30 m). The equivalent horizontal excursion of these bands scales to the ripple length. Under the smaller waves the intra-wave modulation of the SSC disappears and is replaced by temporally homogenous suspension that expands vertically through several individual wave cycles. The former pattern of homogenous suspension appears to be associated with growth of a boundary layer due to the persistent uni-directional horizontal flow during this part of the group together with the persistence of antecedent bed generated turbulence and vorticity which maintains the suspension. The latter pattern of bands of high and low SSC indicates a strong temporal and spatial constraint on the SSC (phase coupling) induced by the presence of the bedforms which may be enhanced by strong reversals in both flow and vorticity under the large waves in the group.     

Spatio-temporal characteristics of small-scale wave–current ripples on the Ameland ebb-tidal delta

Ebb-tidal deltas are highly dynamic environments affected by both waves and currents that approach the coast under various angles. Among other bedforms of various scales, these hydrodynamics create small-scale bedforms (ripples), which increase the bed roughness and will therefore affect hydrodynamics and sediment transport. In morphodynamic models, sediment transport predictions depend on the roughness height, but the accuracy of these predictors has not been tested for field conditions with strongly mixed (wave–current dominated) forcing. In this study, small-scale bedforms were observed in the field with a 3D Profiling Sonar at five locations on the Ameland ebb-tidal delta, the Netherlands. Hydrodynamic conditions ranged from wave dominated to current dominated, but were mixed most of the time. Small-scale ripples were found on all studied parts of the delta, superimposed on megaripples. Even though a large range of hydrodynamic conditions was encountered, the spatio-temporal variations in small-scale ripple dimensions were relatively small (height 0.015 m, length 0.11 m). Also, the ripples were always highly three-dimensional. These small dimensions are probably caused by the fact that the bed consists of relatively fine sediment. Five bedform height predictors were tested, but they all overestimated the ripple heights, partly because they were not created for small grain sizes. Furthermore, the predictors all have a strong dependence on wave- and current-related velocities, whereas the ripple heights measured here were only related to the near-bed orbital velocity. Therefore, ripple heights and lengths in wave–current-dominated, fine-grained coastal areas ( mm) may be best estimated by constant values rather than values dependent on the hydrodynamics. In the case of the Ameland ebb-tidal delta, these values were found to be m and m. ©2019 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.     

基于近底原位观测的小尺度海底沙波地形小波分解

浅海海床发育着不同尺度的活动性砂体,在大型活动性砂体上常叠加发育着大量小尺度沙波(纹),分析这些小尺度沙波(纹)有助于揭示活动性砂体的成因机制。但它们的尺度较小,常规分析方法往往将其作为高频噪声滤除,难以对该尺度海底沙波(纹)进行分离量化研究。为了解决这个问题,本文设计并实现了一种基于小波分析的小尺度海底沙波地形分解方法,并以台湾浅滩典型区域的高精度近底原位观测数据为例,实现了小尺度海底沙波地形的分解和定量分析,分解出背景地形、小型沙波和沙波纹(波长小于0.6 m)3种地貌类型。本文提出的小尺度海底沙波地形分解量化方法,可广泛应用于浅海高活动性地貌发育演化和海底边界层沉积动力过程研究,对评估海洋工程的稳定性也具有一定的实用价值。