涌浪对风浪能量影响的实验研究

在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加.     

Study of a model for correcting the effects of horizontal advection on surface fluxes measurement based on remote sensing

As well known, the methods of remote sensing and Bowen Ratio for retrieving surface flux are based on energy balance closure; however, in most cases, surface energy observed in experiment is lack of closure. There are two main causes for this: one is from the errors of the observation devices and the differences of their observational scale; the other lies in the effect of horizontal advection on the surface flux measurement. Therefore, it is very important to estimate the effects of horizontal advection quantitatively. Based on the local advection theory and the surface experiment, a model has been proposed for correcting the effect of horizontal advection on surface flux measurement, in which the relationship between the fetch of the measurement and pixel size for remote sensed data was considered. By means of numerical simulations, the sensitivities of the main parameters in the model and the scaling problems of horizontal advection were analyzed. At last, by using the observational data acquired in agricultural field with relatively homogeneous surface, the model was validated.     

农田近地表风沙流风程效应变化特征研究

风沙流的风程效应研究是定量获取风沙流沿程变化的核心和难点,风程效应是指输沙率随沙床表面或地块长度的增加而不断增大,而后趋于稳定的变化特征,饱和输沙率（f_max）和饱和路径长度（L_sat）是风程效应的重要参数。采用自动连续称重式集沙仪,以河北坝上地区康保县境内典型旱作农田为研究对象,观测了2017、2018年和2021年内4次典型风蚀事件,分析近地表5 cm高度风沙流的风程效应在5 min时间尺度下的变化特征。结果表明：（1） 近地表输沙通量随风程距离的增大而增大。（2） 4次风蚀事件中L_sat的变化范围在11~280 m之间,并存在明显差异,其变化与风速无关。（3） 近地表风沙流的f_max与风速（U）呈幂函数关系。（4） 风程效应的变化特征与地表可蚀性因子、地表微地貌变化有着紧密联系,未来应对不同的土壤类型和质地农田的风程效应进行深入研究。     

关于风浪预报公式和风区宽度的注记

从定常波的风浪波高随风距成长的预报公式出发 ,在一定条件下 ,导出各波向上风浪波高分量与该波向上的风距之间的关系 ,以便在不规则风区上推算风浪波高和平均波向 ;同时 ,对风区宽度作了定量化的分析。     

An Aerosol Model of the Marine and Coastal Atmospheric Surface Layer

We present a microphysical model for the surface layer marine and coastal atmospheric aerosols that is based on long-term observations of size distributions for 0.01–100 µm particles. The fundamental feature of the model is a parameterization of amplitudes and widths for aerosol modes of the aerosol size distribution function (ASDF) as functions of fetch and wind speed. The shape of ASDF and its dependence on meteorological parameters, height above sea level (H), fetch (X), wind speed (U) and relative humidity (RH), are investigated. At present, the model covers the ranges H = 0–25 m, U?=?3–18 km s^?1, X?≤?120 km and RH?=?40–98%.

The latest version of the Marine Aerosol Extinction Profiles model (MaexPro) is described and applied to the computation and analysis of the spectral profiles of aerosol extinction coefficients α(λ) in the wavelength band λ?=?0.2–12 µm. MaexPro is based on the aforementioned aerosol model assuming spherically shaped aerosol particles and the well-known Mie theory.

The spectral profiles of α(λ) calculated by MaexPro are in good agreement with observational data and the numerical results obtained from the Navy Aerosol Model (NAM) and the Advanced Navy Aerosol Model (ANAM). Moreover, MaexPro was found to be an accurate and reliable tool for investigating the optical properties of atmospheric aerosols.     

Adjustment of Wind Waves to Sudden Changes of Wind Speed

An experiment was conducted in a small wind-wave facility at the Ocean Engineering Laboratory, California, to address the following question: when the wind speed changes rapidly, how quickly and in what manner do the short wind waves respond? To answer this question we have produced a very rapid change in wind speed between U _low (4.6 m s^?1) and U _high (7.1 m s^?1). Water surface elevation and air turbulence were monitored up to a fetch of 5.5 m. The cycle of increasing and decreasing wind speed was repeated 20 times to assure statistical accuracy in the measurement by taking an ensemble mean. In this way, we were able to study in detail the processes by which the young laboratory wind waves adjust to wind speed perturbations. We found that the wind-wave response occurs over two time scales determined by local equilibrium adjustment and fetch adjustment, Δt ₁/T = O(10) and Δt ₂/T = O(100), respectively, in the current tank. The steady state is characterized by a constant non-dimensional wave height (H/gT ² or equivalently, the wave steepness for linear gravity waves) depending on wind speed. This equilibrium state was found in our non-steady experiments to apply at all fetches, even during the long transition to steady state, but only after a short initial relaxation Δt ₁/T of O(10) following a sudden change in wind speed. The complete transition to the new steady state takes much longer, Δt ₂/T of O(100) at the largest fetch, during which time energy propagates over the entire fetch along the rays (dx/dt = c _g) and grows under the influence of wind pumping. At the same time, frequency downshifts. Although the current study is limited in scale variations, we believe that the suggestion that the two adjustment time scales are related to local equilibrium adjustment and fetch adjustment is also applicable to the ocean.     

Influence of wavelength on the parameterization of drag coefficient and surface roughness

Surface waves are the roughness element of the ocean surface, the air-sea interaction processes are influenced by the wave conditions. The dynamic influence of surface waves decays exponentially with distance from the air-water interface. The relevant length scale characterizing the decay rate is the wavelength. The parameterization of drag coefficient and surface roughness can be significantly improved by using wavelength as the reference length scale of atmospheric measurements. The wavelength scaling of drag coefficient and dynamic roughness also receives support from theoretical studies of wind and wave coupling.     

A cell-based algorithm for evaluating directional distances in GIS

Directional distance is commonly used in geographical information systems as a measure of openness. In previous works, the sweep line method and the interval tree method have been employed to evaluate the directional distances on vector maps. Both methods require rotating original maps and study points in every direction of interest. In this article, we propose a cell-based algorithm that pre-processes a map only once; that is, it subdivides the map into a group of uniform-sized cells and records each borderline of the map into the cells traversed by its corresponding line segment. Based on the pre-processing result, the neighbouring borderlines of a study point can be directly obtained through the neighbouring cells of the point, and the borderlines in a definite direction can be simply acquired through the cells traversed by the half line as well. As a result, the processing step does not need to enumerate all the borderlines of the map when determining whether a point is on a borderline or finding the nearest intersection between a half line and the borderlines. Furthermore, we implement the algorithm for determining fetch length in coastal environment. Once the pre-processing is done, the algorithm can work in a complex archipelago environment such as to calculate the fetch lengths in multiple directions, to determine the inclusion property of a point, and to deal with the singularity of a study point on a borderline.     

The effects of surface moisture on aeolian sediment transport threshold and mass flux on a beach

This paper presents results from a study designed to explore the effects of beach surface moisture and fetch effects on the threshold of movement, intensity of sand transport by wind and mass flux. The experiment was carried out over a period of five weeks at Greenwich Dunes, Prince Edward Island, Canada in May and June 2002. Moisture content was measured with a Delta‐T moisture probe over a 50 m by 25 m grid established on the beach. Measurements of wind speed and direction were made with arrays of cup anemometers and a two‐dimensional sonic anemometer. Transport intensity was measured at a height of 2–4 cm above the bed using omnidirectional saltation probes which count the impact of saltating grains on a piezoelectric crystal. Anemometers and saltation probes were sampled at 1 Hz. Sand transport was measured with vertical integrating sand traps over periods of 10–20 minutes. Results show that where there is a considerable supply of dry sand the saltation system responds very rapidly (1–2 s) to fluctuations in wind speed, i.e. to wind gusts. Where sand supply from the surface is limited by moisture, mean transport rates are much lower and this reflects in both a reduction in the instantaneous transport rate and in a transport system that becomes increasingly intermittent. Threshold wind speed is significantly correlated with an increase in surface moisture content near the upwind end of the beach fetch, but the relationship is not significant at the downwind end where sediment transport is initiated primarily by saltation impact from upwind. Mass flux increases with increasing fetch length and the relationship is described best by a power function. Further work is necessary to develop a theoretical function to predict the increase in transport with fetch distance as well as the critical fetch distance. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A Whitecap Coverage Model Based on the Surface Slope For Criterion of Wave Breaking

Using the limit surface slope as a criterion of wave breaking,a simple model for estimatingthe spatial fraction of breaking surface of sea at an instant,which is regarded as the whitecap coverge inthis paper,is analytically derived from the probability density of surface slope based on Gaussianstatistics.The resulting fraction is found depending on the fourth moment of wave spectum,m_4,as well asthe critical threshold of surface slope.By expressing the fourth moment in terms of the Neumannspectrum,a formula linking the fraction and wind speed for fully developed sea states is obtianed.Anotherformula relating the fraction to both wind speed and fetch(or duration)is achieved by expressing m_4 interms of the Krylov spectrum and applying the empirical relationships used in the SMB ocean wave pre-dicting technique.A comparison between these results and the field data of whitecap coverage collected byMonahan and O＇Muircheartuigh shows an encouraging agreement.