Wave run-up and overtopping on smooth and rough slopes of coastal structures

A series of hydraulic model tests has been carried out in a glass wave flume to investigate the influences of wave height, wave period, wave steepness, surf similarity parameter, roughness, layer thickness and porosity on wave run-up and overtopping of 1:2 sloped impermeable and permeable breakwaters fronted by a 1:10 gentle, smooth beach slope. The analysis of results involves the correlation between the overtopping energy transfer with the relative wall height and the relationship between wave run-up and overtopping rate. Further, measured wave run-up and overtopping rates are compared with the results given in the Shore Protection Manual (1984), Automated Coastal Engineering System (1992)and results of other investigators.     

Wave reflection from partially perforated-wall caisson breakwater

In 1995, Suh and Park developed a numerical model that computes the reflection of regular waves from a fully perforated-wall caisson breakwater. This paper describes how to apply this model to a partially perforated-wall caisson and irregular waves. To examine the performance of the model, existing experimental data are used for regular waves, while a laboratory experiment is conducted in this study for irregular waves. The numerical model based on a linear wave theory tends to over-predict the reflection coefficient of regular waves as the wave nonlinearity increases, but such an over-prediction is not observed in the case of irregular waves. For both regular and irregular waves, the numerical model slightly over- and under-predicts the reflection coefficients at larger and smaller values, respectively, because the model neglects the evanescent waves near the breakwater.     

Scour at the head of a vertical-wall breakwater

This paper presents the results of an experimental investigation on the near-bed flow patterns, the bed shear stress amplification and scour around the head of a vertical-wall breakwater, using regular waves. The Keulegan-Carpenter number (KC), based on the diameter of the breakwater head, is found to be the major parameter that governs the flow and the equilibrium scour depth. Basic flow structures are identified as function of KC. The scour depth is found to increase with increasing the Keulegan-Carpenter number. The necessary extent of the conventional stone protection is studied. An empirical formula is worked out for the width of the protection layer as function of KC. Also, the effects of head shape, the angle of attack and the presence of a co-directional current are investigated. The results indicate that the scour depth is increased considerably in the presence of a current. Likewise, the scour depth is increased when the head shape is changed from a round shape to a sharp-edged one. It is found that the angle of attack is also an influencing factor as regards the scour depth.     

Probabilistic modelling of long-term beach evolution near segmented shore-parallel breakwaters

This paper presents a new framework for probabilistic modelling of long-term beach evolution in the vicinity of detached breakwaters. The study focuses on the key physical processes contributing to beach variability over a range of spatial and temporal scales. Based on a one-line model, the framework is enhanced with sophisticated solutions for beach-wave-structure interaction, diffraction together with a treatment of varying tide level. The sediment transport rate is calibrated at regional and local levels using data from bespoke field campaigns and site-specific coefficients are proposed. Monte Carlo simulation is conducted for long-term shoreline simulation under a sequence of time varying sequence of waves, currents and tidal levels. The results of the Monte Carlo simulation give an insight into the statistical characteristics of beach behaviour within the defence system. In particular, regions within the scheme that are relatively stable and those that exhibit greater natural fluctuations are identified.     

Coastal defence through low crested breakwater structures: jumping out of the frying pan into the fire?

The Adriatic coast of Punta Marina (Ravenna) is protected by 3-km long low crested breakwater structures (LCSs). Through a 3-years long multidisciplinar study, we assessed the impact of such defensive structures on environmental and biological condition. LCSs create pools where conditions are very different from the surrounding nearshore system. Mechanical disturbance by currents and waves varied greatly in intensity and frequency between seaward and landward sides of the structures. Sedimentary budget was positive at the landward side, but it was due to a gain on the seafloor and not on the emerged beach. The budget at seaward was negative. LCSs determine differences in benthic assemblages, alter the seasonal pattern of communities, and modify seasonal fluctuations of animal assemblages. Landward sheltered areas can be seen as “lagoonal island” surrounded by a “sea of marine habitat”. Differences in ecological quality status, obtained through M-AMBI, are due to the sum of these factors.     

Water wave interaction with an array of bottom-mounted surface-piercing porous cylinders

The interaction of water waves with arrays of bottom-mounted, surface-piercing circular cylinders is investigated theoretically. The sidewall of each cylinder is porous and thin. Under the assumptions of potential flow and linear wave theory, a semi-analytical solution is obtained by an eigenfunction expansion approach first proposed for impermeable cylinders by Spring and Monkmeyer (1974), and later simplified by Linton and Evans (1990). Analytical expressions are developed for the wave motion in the exterior and all interior fluid regions. Numerical results are presented which illustrate the effects of various wave and structural parameters on the hydrodynamic loads and the diffracted wave field. It is found that the porosity of the structures may result in a significant reduction in both the hydrodynamic loads experienced by the cylinders and the associated wave runup.     

Hydrodynamic pressures and forces on quadrant front face pile supported breakwater

Quadrant front face pile supported breakwater is a combination of semicircular and closely spaced pile breakwaters which couples the advantages of these two types. This type of structure consists of two parts. The bottom portion consists of closely spaced piles and the top portion consists of a quadrant solid front face on the seaside. The leeward side of the top portion with a vertical face would facilitate the berthing of vessels. An experimental investigation on this breakwater model in a wave flume is carried out for three water depths. For each water depth, three different spacings between the piles were adopted for the investigation. The dynamic pressures exerted along the quadrant front face due to regular waves were measured. The variation of dimensionless pressures with respect to scattering parameter for different gap ratio (spacing between the piles/diameter of pile) and for relative pile depth (water depth/pile height) are presented and discussed. In addition, the dimensionless total forces exerted on the breakwater model as well as its reflection characteristics as a function of scattering parameter are reported.     

Equilibrium beach profile model for perched beaches

A beach profile equilibrium model for perched beaches is presented. The model assumes that wave reflection at the seaward and leeward sides of the breakwater is the most important process that modifies Dean's equilibrium profile model for non-perched beaches. The influence of wave breaking over the submerged structure is also discussed. Several laboratory data sets are used to analyze the merit of the proposed model for describing the equilibrium condition of a perched beach. A good comparison is obtained. Results show that if the ratio between the water depth above the submerged structure, d, and the water depth at the toe of the structure, h_e, is large, d/h_e>0.5, only minor advance of the shoreline is achieved with the construction of a toe structure. A considerable advance is obtained for d/h_e less that 0.1. In these situations, however, resonant effects may result in an inefficient structure. The proposed model is used to provide an estimation for the required sand volume and the associated beach advance for the case of narrow breakwaters.     

The role of submerged berms on the momentary liquefaction around conventional rubble mound breakwaters

Berms deployed at the toe of conventional rubble mound breakwaters can be very effective in improving the stability of the armor layer. Indeed, their design is commonly tackled by paying attention to armor elements dimensioning. Past research studies showed how submerged berms can increase the stability of the armor layer if compared to straight sloped conventional breakwaters without a berm. To fill the gap of knowledge related to the interaction between breakwaters with submerged berm, waves and soil, this research aims to evaluate how submerged berms configuration influences the seabed soil response and momentary liquefaction occurrences around and beneath breakwaters foundation, under dynamic wave loading. The effects of submerged berms on the incident waves transformation have been evaluated by means of a phase resolving numerical model for simulating non-hydrostatic, free-surface, rotational flows. The soil response to wave-induced seabed pressures has been evaluated by using an ad-hoc anisotropic poro-elastic soil solver. Once the evaluation of the seabed consolidation state due to the presence of the breakwater has been performed, the dynamic interaction among water waves, soil and structure has been analyzed by using a one-way coupling boundary condition. A parametric study has been carried out by varying the berm configuration (i.e. its height and its length), keeping constant the offshore regular wave condition, the berm and armor layer porosity values, the water depth and the elastic properties of the soil. Results indicate that the presence of submerged berms tends to mitigate the liquefaction probability if compared to straight sloped conventional breakwater without a berm. In addition, it appears that the momentary liquefaction phenomena are more influenced by changing the berm length rather than the berm height.     

Design and performance of headland bays in Chesapeake Bay,USA

The use of headland-breakwater systems along the shore of Chesapeake Bay began in the early 1980s. Properly designed and installed headland breakwaters with beach fill and wetlands plantings provide shore protection and create a “full” coastal profile of beach/backshore/dune which enhances habitat. They create a tertiary buffer for upland runoff and groundwater and provide access and recreation. The wetland grasses also create an erosion resistant turf. The coastal profile accommodates environmental permitting requirements of habitat enhancement for shore protection structures.