用实测波浪数据确定JONSWAP谱参数

本文给出应用实测波浪数据确定JONSWAP谱参数的方法，若Hs,Tz,Tc分别为实的有效波高，平均上跨零线周期，平均峰－峰周期并令y=Tz/Tc，本文导出求解谱参数γ值的方程f（γ，y）＝0。根据这个方程的解并应用最小二乘法，γ作为y的函数的表达式可写为（对于2.54≤γ≤15.34及1.6≤y≤1.79）。     

Foreword

Ocean circulation in the Yellow and East China Seas is very rich in mesoscale phenomena, such as eddies, fronts, upwellings, river plumes, etc. Among others, having drawn tremendous attention from oceanographic community in the past for nearly 50 years are mainly the Yellow Sea Cold Water Mass (YSCWM) and its related circulation, the Yellow Sea Warm Current (YSWC), the East China Sea     

Tidal effects on temperature front in the Yellow Sea

Temperature front (TF) is one of the important features in the Yellow Sea, which forms in spring, thrives in summer, and fades in autumn as thermocline declines. TF intensity ⋎S _T ⋎ is defined to describe the distribution of TF. Based on the MASNUM wave-tide-circulation coupled model, temperature distribution in the Yellow Sea was simulated with and without tidal effects. Along 36°N, distribution of TF from the simulated results are compared with the observations, and a quantitative analysis is introduced to evaluate the tidal effects on the forming and maintaining processes of the TF. Tidal mixing and the circulation structure adapting to it are the main causes of the TF. Supported by the National Basic Research Program of China (No. G1999043809) and the National Science Foundation of China (No. 49736190).     

富氏谱分析法模拟地壳垂直运动的地学依据及其策应力模型

应用地壳波浪与镶嵌构造学说对富氏谱分析法提取地壳垂直形变信息的科学性做了地质学意义上的阐释 ,并提出了根据多期形变资料提取特定波段上构造策应力的数学模型     

斜向波对直立式防波堤堤头作用的试验研究

直立式防波堤堤头在斜向波浪作用下波浪力的计算在现行的技术规范中尚属空白。通过物理模型试验给出了堤头结构设计所需的波压分布图，指出了波浪入射方向和地形对堤头所受波浪力的贡献有时可以超过波高和波周期，根据现行规范按波浪正向入射计算堤头所受的波浪力偏于安全。     

沙质海床对波浪的响应及其稳定性研究的回顾

本文简要回顾了前人关于沙质海床在波浪作用下的响应，液化和稳定性等方面问题和研究状况。对各研究中所采用的计算模型、计算方法、应用范围以及存在的问题作了较为系统的评述。此外对各问题的最新研究成果也作了简要的介绍，最后讨论了该领域中有待于进一步研究的问题。     

在各类天气系统影响下石臼港沿岸波浪场的分布

本文查阅了从１９７３－１９８５，１３年的历史资料，对石臼港沿岸波浪场进行了详细的分类、统计分析和计算，提出了各类较强天气系统影响石（即指石臼港）的极端区域，同时获得了石港沿岸各类天气系统影响下的波浪分布特点以及波高计算式，为保障石港的生产及港口建设为石港的波了提供了有益的分析数据和预报手段。