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1.
P. Bonneton   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(10):1459-1471
In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.  相似文献   
2.
The Wakamiko submarine crater is a small depression located in Kagoshima Bay, southwest Japan. Marine shallow‐water hydrothermal activity associated with fumarolic gas emissions at the crater sea floor (water depth 200 m) is considered to be related with magmatic activity of the Aira Caldera. During the NT05‐13 dive expedition conducted in August 2005 using remotely operated vehicle Hyper‐Dolphine (Japan Agency for Marine‐Earth Science and Technology), an active shimmering site was discovered (tentatively named the North site) at approximately 1 km from the previously known site (tentatively named the South site). Surface sediment (up to 30 cm) was cored from six localities including these active sites, and the alteration minerals and pore fluid chemistry were studied. The pore fluids of these sites showed a drastic change in chemical profile from that of seawater, even at 30 cm below the surface, which is attributed to mixing of the ascending hydrothermal component and seawater. The hydrothermal component of the North site is estimated to be derived from a hydrothermal aquifer at 230°C based on the hydrothermal end‐member composition. Occurrence of illite/smectite interstratified minerals in the North site sediment is attributed to in situ fluid–sediment interaction at a temperature around 150°C, which is in accordance with the pore fluid chemistry. In contrast, montmorillonite was identified as the dominant alteration mineral in the South site sediment. Together with the significant low potassium concentration of the hydrothermal end‐member, the abundant occurrence of low‐temperature alteration mineral suggests that the hydrothermal aquifer in the South site is not as high as 200°C. Moreover, the montmorillonite is likely to be unstable with the present pore fluid chemistry at the measured temperature (117°C). This disagreement implies unstable hydrothermal activity at the South site, in contrast to the equilibrium between the pore fluid and alteration minerals in the North site sediment. This difference may reflect the thermal and/or hydrological structure of the Wakamiko Crater hydrothermal system.  相似文献   
3.
The late Quaternary shallow-water carbonates have been altered by a variety of diagenetic processes, and further influenced by high-amplitude global and regional sea level changes. This study utilizes a new borehole drilled on the Yongxing Island, Xisha Islands to investigate meteoric diagenetic alteration in the late Quaternary shallowwater carbonates. Petrographic, mineralogical, stable isotopic and elemental data provide new insights into the meteoric diagenetic processes of the reef limestone. The results show the variation in the distribution of aragonite,high-Mg calcite(HMC) and low-Mg calcite(LMC) divides the shallow-water carbonates in Core SSZK1 into three intervals, which are Unit I(31.20–55.92 m, LMC), Unit II(18.39–31.20 m, aragonite and LMC) and Unit III(upper 18.39 m of core, aragonite, LMC and HMC). Various degrees of meteoric diagenesis exist in the identified three units. The lowermost Unit I has suffered almost complete freshwater diagenesis, whereas the overlying Units II and III have undergone incompletely meteoric diagenesis. The amount of time that limestone has been in the freshwater diagenetic environment has the largest impact on the degree of meteoric diagenesis. Approximately four intact facies/water depth cycles are recognized. The cumulative depletion of elements such as strontium(Sr),sodium(Na) and sulphur(S) caused by duplicated meteoric diagenesis in the older reef sequences are distinguished from the younger reef sequences. This study provides a new record of meteoric diagenesis, which is well reflected by whole-rock mineralogy and geochemistry.  相似文献   
4.
无结构网格上二维浅水流动的数值模拟   总被引:28,自引:13,他引:28       下载免费PDF全文
提出在无结构网格上建立有限体积高性能格式族的统一框架,通过引入跨单元界面法向数值通量的逆风分解,将一维Osher、TVD两种通量分裂格式自然地推广至二维浅水方程组。给出了各种情况下浅水方程组有限体积法边界处理的计算公式。最后,利用该格式对穹包溢流、陆地动边界和河口潮流三个问题进行计算。结果表明,这类守恒格式具有高精度、无振荡性以及处理复杂流态过渡、自动捕俘间断和模拟陆地动边界的功能。  相似文献   
5.
新疆中库鲁克塔格地区震旦系扎摩克提组沉积特征   总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3  
扎摩克提组位于中库鲁克塔格震旦系上统底部,由砂岩、粉砂岩和泥页岩构成韵律武沉积,为不完整的玛鲍序列.砂岩层底面普遍发育槽模等底痕.有些砂岩呈纹层状,并有滑动构造和包卷层理等.构成砂岩的碎屑颗粒分选性差.根据粒度分布概率图、C-M图和碳、氧、硫等稳定同位素及Sr/Ba比值、硼含量等显示,该组形成于淡化海槽中.  相似文献   
6.
Shallow-water limestones of presumed Late Cretaceous and Eocene age, interbedded with basaltic lavas, were described by earlier authors from São Nicolau in the northwestern part of the Cabo Verde archipelago. If confirmed, these ages would imply late Mesozoic shallow-marine and subaerial volcanic activity in the Cabo Verde archipelago, and document a geological history very different from that known so far from other Cabo Verde Islands, from which no subaerial volcanic activity before the mid-Cenozoic is known. Our re-investigation of the foraminiferal fauna indicates a Late Miocene age for the presumed Late Cretaceous and Eocene limestones. The hypothesis of a long-lived hot spot, active by the Early Cretaceous, and of a major island-building stage in the Cabo Verde Islands during this period, is therefore not supported by the present bio- or chronostratigraphic data.  相似文献   
7.
Abstract   The lithology of shallow-water carbonates collected from 19 sites on 16 seamounts in six areas of the northwestern Pacific Ocean using the Deep-sea Boring Machine System are described. The areas include the Amami Plateau, Daito Ridge, Oki-Daito Ridge, Urdaneta Plateau, Kyushu-Palau Ridge and Ogasawara Plateau. Chronological constraint is provided by calcareous nannofossil biostratigraphy, planktonic foraminiferal biostratigraphy, larger foraminiferal biostratigraphy and strontium (Sr) isotope stratigraphy. Large amounts of shallow-water carbonates accumulated on the seamounts during the Oligocene, a relatively cool period, whereas limited carbonate deposits formed during the Early Miocene, a relatively warm period. This might indicate that deposition of shallow-water carbonates on seamounts in the northwestern Pacific Ocean was not necessarily controlled by climatic conditions, but was related to volcanism and tectonics that served as foundations for reef/carbonate-platform formation. Remarkable differences in biotic composition exist between Cretaceous and Cenozoic shallow-water carbonates. Late Cretaceous shallow-water carbonates are distinguished by the occurrence of rudists, solenoporacean algae and microencrusters. Middle Eocene to Early Oligocene shallow-water carbonates are dominated by Halimeda or nummulitid and discocyclinid larger foraminifers. Scleractinian corals became common from the Oligocene onward. Nongeniculate coralline algae and larger foraminifers were common to abundant throughout the Eocene to the Pleistocene. The replacement of major carbonate producers in the shallow-water carbonate factory during post-Cretaceous time is in accordance with previous studies and is considered to reflect a shift in seawater chemistry.  相似文献   
8.
河南晚石炭世含煤地层中的风暴异地煤   总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3  
河南省晚石炭世含煤地层中,存在着因风暴作用强烈侵蚀滨海泥炭沼泽,而后通过风暴回流把泥炭物质和植物遗体长距离搬运到浅海环境再沉积的风暴异地煤。这种异地煤的直接顶底板是具有风暴沉积特征的浅海碳酸盐岩.煤破碎成粉砂级—泥级,煤层原生结构已完全看不到,煤层下部为含有大量海相动物化石的滞积层,中部为具有类似丘状层理的波状层,上部为水平纹层,其层序特征几乎可与煤层直接顶底板浅海碳酸盐风暴岩类比。研究这种异地煤的沉积背景和形成机制以及这种煤层所反映出的煤质特征、煤岩特征、沉积特征、层序及层序类型特征,不仅可以开拓出一种新型异地成煤类型而扩大煤地质学的研究领域,而且有助于研究古气候、古水深和煤岩层对比等问题。  相似文献   
9.
湖平面升降对浅水三角洲前缘砂体形态的影响   总被引:7,自引:4,他引:3  
三角洲平原上的分流河道通过填积和湖面的频繁波动向湖泊中心方向长距离推进,在浅水三角洲前缘的浅水区发育很有特色的水下分流河道,且在湖面频繁波动过程中,河流、波浪和沿岸流的冲刷作用对沉积物分布起到再改造作用,导致了以水下分流河道砂体为主的三角洲前缘砂体不同程度的席状化。随着气候变得潮湿,湖面相对稳定,季节性、周期性湖面波动的频率、幅度减小,水动力对三角洲前缘砂体的改造和席状化强度减弱。  相似文献   
10.
砂体类型与分布特征的差异性造就了油气储层发育的非均质性,通过岩心垂向序列特征明确了沙溪庙组砂体成因类型,并综合测井、地震资料刻画了不同类型砂体的空间分布。沙溪庙组浅水三角洲平原发育垂积型主河道、侧积/填积型次河道砂体以及溢岸砂体,前缘发育侧积型近端水下分流河道、填积型远端水下分流河道、进积型河口坝砂体以及席状砂体;平原主河道砂体厚度多大于10 m,宽600~1 800 m,通过同位垂向切叠与侧向等高程切叠而形成毯状连片砂体,次河道砂体多位于主河道侧缘,厚度平均7.5 m,物性较差,并常被主河道切割而零星分布;内前缘近端水下分流河道砂体厚4~8 m,宽500~1 200 m,多错位切叠或拼接接触,呈带状;远端水下分流河道发育于三角洲外前缘,单砂体厚2.5~6 m,宽200~700 m,平面呈鞋带状,砂体孤立;前缘河口坝砂体分布较少,垂向上常被河道切叠;平原相带两类河道砂体的物性差异造成了储层内部的非均质性,而三角洲前缘储层的非均质性更多在于不同类型砂体的迷宫状展布上。  相似文献   
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